summer evenings.

There are two residences of the imperial family which should be visited before the traveler leaves St. Petersburg: the one is beautifully situated on the island of Elaghinskoi, in the Great Nevka, near the Gulf, and the other is Tsarkoé Sélo. This last is forty minutes from St. Petersburg, by a railroad which was the first ever laid in Russia. At the station there are droschkes in summer, and sledges in winter, to convey the passengers to their destination, or the entire excursion may be made by carriage, taking the Poulkova Observatory on the way.

Near the principal entrance of the grounds leading to the palace stand two small towers, with carvings of Egyptian figures and hieroglyphics. The palace itself was built in 1744, and embellished by Catharine II., when all the ornaments in front-the vases, carvings, statues, capitals, and pedestals of the columns, etc.-were all covered with gold-leaf, the gold amounting to more than a million ducats. None of the gilding now remains but on the dome and cupolas of the church. In the interior the chapel is first shown to the visitor, the gallery of which is used by the imperial family, and communicates with their apartments. The room is large, fitted up with dark wood, and extensively gilded, the ceiling being entirely covered with gold. There are also some fine old paintings. Near the altar hangs a key of the city of Adrianople. Perhaps the most wonderful room in this palace is the famous Amber Room, the walls of which are paneled with this most costly material cut in different designs. In several places there are groups of figures framed with large pieces of the same beautiful substance. The arms of Frederick the Great are frequently to be seen moulded with the imperial cipher, the amber having been presented to him by Catharine II. The Lapis Lazuli is another most remarkable room, so named from the incrustations of that stone with which it is ornamented. The walls are entirely lined with pictures, cut so as to fit into each other without any frames, and the floor is of ebony inlaid with large flowers of mother-of-pearl, forming a most beautiful contrast.

In Catharine's bed-chamber the pillars

with porcelain. In the banqueting-room the walls are most lavishly gilded, as indeed are all those of the state apartments. The Chinese Room is remarkable for the beauty of the articles it contains and the taste displayed in their arrangement, while the two ball-rooms are conspicuous for the splendid collections of china vases, which are placed in circular tiers up to the ceiling in the upper end of each room. They are all marked with the imperial E, for Ekaterina.

The private apartments of Catharine are to be seen; also those of Alexander I., exactly as he left them when he departed for Taganrog. They consist of his study, a small room with scagliola walls, and a bedroom beyond, with a camp-bedstead in an alcove. On a small table on one side of the room is a green-morocco looking-glass, with his shaving apparatus, brushes, combs, and a pocket-handkerchief with the mark Z. 23.

The grounds of the palace are eighteen miles in circumference, kept always in most perfect order by six hundred veteran soldiers.

Notice in one corner of these grounds a tower several stories high, which was occupied by Alexander II. and his tutor when heir-apparent. In another portion are the baby-houses of the grand-duchess, and a pond with a fleet of tiny vessels, made for the amusement of the GrandDuke Constantine, afterward high-admiral. There are besides many other objects of interest, viz., a Turkish kiosk; the admiralty, a Gothic building; a marble bridge, with Corinthian columns and bronze statues, erected by Catharine to her favorites -among them one to Orloff; a summerhouse, with an Ionic colonnade supporting a garden planted with flowers; a Chinese village; a theatre; a Dutch and Swiss cow-house, etc. There are also several monuments, erected by Alexander I. to commemorate the deeds of his companions in arms; Roman tombs, artificial ruins, grottoes, and waterfalls. In one of the artificial ruins the celebrated Statue of our Savior, by Dannecker, is shown.

The Alexander Palace, built by Catharine for her grandson, Alexander I., is very simple in style. The walls of the large drawing-room possess no ornament but a

Oranienbaum, about five miles distant from Cronstadt, may be reached by small steamers, which go to and fro between the two places several times a day.

The palace of Oranienbaum was built in 1724 by Mentchikoff, and was confiscated to the crown on his attainder. It now belongs to the Grand-Duchess Helen. The building stands on a terrace commanding a most beautiful and extensive view of Cronstadt and its fortifications, with a vast expanse of water beyond. This was once the favorite residence of Peter III., who raised here a mimic fortification, still to be

seen.

A carriage may be engaged here to take the traveler to Peterhof or Sergi, with the understanding that all places of interest on the road are to be visited. From seven to ten rubles is the price for the day. The distance from Oranienbaum to Peterhof is six miles, and may be performed by rail by those who prefer that mode of conveyance, as cheaper and more expeditious.

Going by carriage, we pass first Sergiefka, the property and chateau of the Grand-Duchess Marie Nicolaïevna; next we reach Sobstvennaya, or "Mine Own, which is a lovely miniature palace, built for Alexander II. when heir-apparent. Admission is granted to visitors, who should not fail to stop here a few moments. Between this and Peterhof stand the farm and summer residence of Prince Peter of Oldenburg.

The palace of Peterhof was commenced in 1720 by Leblond, under the directions of Peter the Great. Alterations and additions have been made to the building by every succeeding emperor and empress, but the original character is still preserved, even to its color, yellow, which is continually renewed. The interior is filled with innumerable articles of virtu, gorgeous tapestries, tazzas of marble, porcelain, and malachite, as well as numerous pictures, which represent chiefly the naval victories of different Russian commanders under Catharine II. One of the most remarkable apartments is that containing a collection of female portraits, 368 in number, painted by Count Rotari during a journey made through the fifty Russian provinces, and by him presented to Catharine II. They

present every variety of beauty and of pose. In one room some carvings of Peter the Great are shown, while another contains the little table and benches used as playthings by the Emperors Alexander I. and Nicholas in their childhood.

In front of the palace is a fountain called the Samson, a magnificent jet d'eau eighty feet high, so named from the colossal bronze figure forcing open the jaws of a lion, from which the water rushes forth; on each side of this are other jets d'eau, which throw the water vertically and horizontally. From the Samson a canal runs a distance of 500 yards to the sea, in which are many smaller fountains. The principal basins are at the foot of the eminence on which the palace stands; a broad flight of steps leads from them to the palace, on each side of which are ranges of marble slabs, over which the water pours. The slabs are arranged so as to allow lamps to be placed behind the water, which is always done at the Peterhof fêtes, and the splendor of the waterworks is considered to be but little inferior to that of those at Versailles.

Marly and Montplaisir are two small buildings inhabited by Peter the Great, both situated in the garden below the palace. From Marly Peter used to contemplate his infant fleet, anchored under the batteries of Cronstadt; while at Montplaisir he breathed his last, and the bed upon which he died has been since preserved untouched. At Montplaisir the Empress Elizabeth often amused herself by cooking her own dinner. It contains a small collection of Flemish and Dutch pictures purchased by Peter the Great during his travels in Holland.

In another building, the Hermitage, there is a remarkable contrivance by which dishes and plates pass from the table through grooves in the floor, and are replaced by others without any one being seen.

The cottage of Catharine is most simple on the exterior, while within it is glittering with gold and beautiful ornaments, the fine effect of which is greatly enhanced by the numerous mirrors that cover the walls.

The English Park, on the right-hand side of the road coming from Oranienbaum, is so named because it was laid out by an English gardener. In it is an old build

ing designed by Quarenghi, called the English Palace, which is surrounded by several ornamental cottages. A road through this park leads to Babbigon, a charming cottage belonging to the emperor.

Alexandria, where the emperor resides while at Peterhof, adjoins the, lower garden of the old palace. Within the grounds are several imperial cottages, to see which tickets are required from the governor of the town. From the roof of one of them the Emperor Nicholas used to watch the movements of the Anglo-French squadron before Cronstadt. His telescope is still shown to the visitor.

Strelna, the palace of the Grand-Duke Constantine, is about five miles from Peterhof, and twelve from St. Petersburg. This building was first erected in 1711, and given by Peter the Great to his daughter Elizabeth. Having been almost destroyed by fire in 1803, it was rebuilt by the Emperor Alexander I. The building is of Gothic architecture, and occupies a very commanding situation; the interior, however, is plain, and very simply furnished. The palace and grounds have been repurchased from the family of General Alexandroff, to whom they were bequeathed.

About a mile farther on we come to the Monastery of St. Sergius, which was founded in 1734, the grounds having been bestowed by the Empress.Anne on Warlaam, the superior of the Troitsa Monastery, near Moscow. By him the first church and cells were built. The principal church is probably one of the prettiest in Russia; it stands on an elevation which overlooks the estuary of the Neva, and, with its stalls of oak and open roof, has an appearance of elegance which is possessed by few of the Russo-Greek churches. Underneath are the sepulchral vaults and mortuary chapels of many great families. They are open to visitors, and will be found filled with remembrances from the living to the dead. The church-yard contains many rich and handsome monuments; great crowds assemble here on Sundays to listen to the music and singing at the monastery, which are always very fine. From here the traveler may rejoin the railway, and return to St. Petersburg.

ROUTE 88.-From St. Petersburg to Novgorod the Great.

NOVGOROD.

This excursion should be made by all those who wish to study Russian antiquities. Novgorod the Great is reached in summer by rail as far as Volkhova, and thence by steamer, the time passed on the river being between four and five hours. In winter passengers should proceed by train as far as Chudova, seventy-five miles from St. Petersburg, on the Moscow line, and there engage sledges for Novgorod, forty-five miles distant. This trip will not occupy more than two or three days to go and return. The Berezinskaya Gostinnitsa is the best hotel, being new (1867) and clean.

Novgorod, the cradle of the Russian Empire, is situated on the Volkhov River, and contains a population of 18,000. The Ruric dynasty first settled here in 862, but the Grand-ducal throne was soon removed to Kiev, where its dominion was weakened by constant wars for the succession, the Novgorodians increasing meanwhile in power, until in 1136 they acquired the right of choosing and calling in princes to govern them according to the laws of their city, and of dethroning them when they gave dissatisfaction. The popular assembly, called the Veché assumed great power during the Mongol invasion, when the Tartars established their dominion over the greater part of Russia, with the exception of Novgorod. The "Great Prince of Novgorod," Yaroslaf, indeed, was gained over to the cause of the khans by bribes and offers of support against his unruly people; but relying too much on their support, he neglected the conditions on which he ascended the throne, and was overthrown by an angry populace. The state was quaintly styled the "Lord Great Novgorod," and exercised all its rights of sovereignty until 1478, when it was incorporated by John III. with the grand-duchy of Moscow. Eight thousand boyars and fifty families of merchants were removed by him to Moscow before he could at all extinguish the independent spirit fostered by so many centuries of freedom and prosperity. The Veché bell was carried away to Moscow, as well as innumerable treasures in silver, gold, and precious stones. The first Russian money was coined here in the beginning of the 15th century.

The churches are the only surviving monuments of the greatness of Novgorod.

Foremost among them stands the Cathedral of St. Sophia, or, as it was formerly styled, "The heart and soul of Great Novgorod," where the princes were crowned, and in front of which the Vechés were sometimes held. This building was originally constructed in 1045 by the grandson of St. Vladimir, after a model of Justinian's temple. It was pillaged by the Prince of Polotsk in 1065, and by the Opritchniks under John the Terrible in 1570. The entire building was completely restored between 1820 and 1837. This being one of the oldest churches in Russia, it will be interesting to study its architecture. The cupola is supported by massive quadrangular pillars, eight in number, while at the altar are two more of similar shape. The altar itself is of oak, reached by two stone steps. Behind the altar is some mosaic work, supposed to be contemporaneous with the building of the cathedral. There are five other altars or chapels within the building, which have been added at various times between the 12th and 16th centuries. In the ikonostas, put up in 1341, are eighteen images. One of the most ancient is that of the Savior, which is a copy of an image attributed to the Emperor Emanuel, taken in 1570 to the cathedral at Moscow; also a copy of a Byzantine image of St. Sophia of the same date as the church. The chief shrines are those of—1. St. Anne, the wife of Prince Yaroslaf I., and daughter of King Olaf of Sweden, who first set the example of taking the veil, after the custom of the widowed Byzantine empresses. 2. St. Vladimir, son of Yaroslaf and Anne, and founder of the cathedral, who died in 1052, and whose remains were placed here in 1652. 3. St. Nikita, archbishop of Novgorod, who was canonized for his great piety, his prayers having brought down rain at a time when Novgorod was threatened with destruction by fire. He reposes in a silver shrine bearing the date of his death, 1108. 4. St. Mstislaf, "the Brave," prince of Novgorod. 5. The silver shrine of the Archbishop John of Novgorod, who died in 1186. There are also shrines of ten other saints who lived between the 11th and 17th centuries, and the tombs of nineteen archbishops and metropolitans between the 13th and 19th centuries, the inscriptions of which are almost all illegible.

Notice within the church the doors opening into the Chapel of the Nativity, which are said to have been taken by pirates (among whom were some Novgorodians), in 1187, from the ancient town of Sigtuna, in Sweden. They are made of oak, covered with metallic plates half an inch thick, on which are various scrolls and devices. Another door, called the Chersonesus, or Korsun, is of wood covered with bronze, with fifty-four Latin and Sclavonian inscriptions. Notice also the throne of the tsar and metropolitan, erected in 1560.

At the top of the Cathedral is the Sacristy, with several objects interesting from their antiquity, such as wooden cap, covered with silk, said to have belonged to the princes of Novgorod; a silk standard, said to have been carried before the governors of Novgorod, bearing a monogram of the Savior's name; another standard presented by the Czars Peter and John in 1693, and a collection of silver coins from the time of John III. to Peter I. There is also a printed copy of the Gospels with a cover of the 16th century.

In the Library, which was at one time the richest in Russia, there is a collection of twenty letters from Peter the Great to Catharine I. and his son Alexis. The fine collection of manuscripts which belonged to this library was removed in 1859 to St. Petersburg.

In the centre of Novgorod stands the Kremlin, or stone wall, the foundation of which was laid in 1302. In 1490 it was rebuilt, and repaired again in 1698 and 1818. Within the walls are the cathedral, the archiepiscopal palace, and several churches of great antiquity.

Travelers should not fail to see the great monument which was erected in 1862, and commemorates the 1000th anniversary of the Russian Empire's existence. It was designed by a Russian academician, the figures on it representing different periods in the history of Russia.

Two miles out of Novgorod is the Monastery of Yuryeff, one of the most ancient in Russia, having been founded by Yaroslaf, son of Vladimir, in 1031. It stands on an elevation between the Volkhov and Kniajevka rivers, and presents from a distance a most picturesque appearance. Within the monastery are three churches, the