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of the vineyard is continued even to hunting out the insects on the vines. There is seldom or never a failure in the wine-crop, owing to the benignity of the climate. The high price of good Sherry is not wonderful when the care in the growth and the home duties are taken into account: a bottle of very superior Sherry brings 85 cents on the spot, though the common ordinary wine of the country is worth but 12 cents. The grapes are submitted to the usual mode of pressure, being sprinkled with gypsum to saturate the malic acid in the fruit. The must is left to ferment in the cask, with all the scum retained which the fermentation raises. They do not suffer it to work over, but leave it to itself. The March after the vintage it is racked. The elements of the wine must be good when so little care is necessary in the process. The time the wines are thus left is ten or twelve weeks. Casks are left exposed in all temperatures, and sometimes in the open air, without mischief. Any kind of shelter is considered sufficient; and a good cellar, as it is held in the north, is considered of no moment.

The places in which the wine is left to ferment are strongly constructed of wood, above-ground, and the casks are placed in tiers, with the bungs slightly closed, so as to keep out all extraneous matters, but at the same time to allow full breathing to the wine. In fact, the ropiness of the wine, an accident of very frequent occurrence elsewhere, owing to the slovenly mode of treating it after fermentation, seldom occurs here. The process causes matter for surprise in some cases how so excellent a product is obtained.

This

the liquid be not singed or burned. process is conducted over a gentle fire in a large copper boiler, and when it is quite thick the fire is gradually withdrawn from it, so that the liquor may cool without being too sensibly affected. This is the arrope, which, afterward mixed in a greater or less quantity with the pale wines, makes the brown Sherry of different shades, which is so much esteemed. The wine is not at all deteriorated by this treatment, or by the mixture of wines of the same quality. The pale Sherries, then, are the pure wine, containing nothing but the admixture of a couple of bottles of brandy to the butt, and this is wholly unnecessary.

Good Sherry wine is very scarce, and it is only the growth of certain vineyards, which do not produce more than 40,000 butts a year. At this moment, to procure good wine, it is necessary to pay $300 per butt, and even as high as $1500 has been given; but it is rarely that wine reaches to this value, but when it does so it is of the most exquisite quality, and of extraordinary age. Sherry wines have one great advantage, which is, so long as their origin is of the first order, the older they get the better they are; but it is an error to keep low-priced wines in the expectation of their becoming good after a time; very generally the reverse is the case, and they turn out fit for nothing. The wine business of Jerez is one in which good faith must be observed; it is therefore necessary to place one's interests into respectable and intelligent hands in order to avoid the chance of being deceived or tricked. There are many large and good houses in Jerez; but those in the present day who do the most business are Messrs. Gonzalez, Dubosc & Co., Pemartin & Co., and Manuel Misa. Messrs. Pemartin's agents in the United States are Maletta & Co., one of the most respectable houses in New York. These houses export from 2000 to 5000 butts, and have a stock of from 8000 to 14,000 butts on hand.

The varieties of Sherry depend in a great measure upon the species of the vine used, the class of soil on which it is grown, and the care taken in the management of the process of fermentation. All Sherry wine is by nature of a pale color; the darker shades are conferred by age, or by "vino de color," or boiled wine. This arropé, as it is called locally from the Arabic, is made Messrs. Gonzalez, Dubosc & Co. are of San Lucar de Barrameda in the follow- large proprietors and owners of vineyards. ing manner: They take six butts of must, They have lately purchased one of the oldbefore fermentation commences, and boil est stocks existing, belonging formerly to it down to one butt, keeping the liquid one of the houses first established in Jerez constantly stirred, and the surface careful--Romano. They have also bought the ly skimmed, so as to remove all impurities vineyard Romano, and the use of that that arises in the boiling, taking care that brand. They are the large shippers of the

CADIZ.

[SPAIN.]

CADIZ.

wines known as "Sherries of the old lucia as a residence, being remarkably school." healthy. We much, however, prefer Malaga.

In one of Messrs. Gonzalez' cellars are twelve large casks, called the "Twelve Apostles," each of which holds 1600 gallons. The queen, Isabel of Spain, did this house the honor last year, during her southern tour, to visit their cellars, and in commemoration of the event they have erected an immense cask, called "Isabel II.," which stands in the midst of the "Twelve Apostles," filled with 960 arrobes, or 32 butts (3684 gallons!), of their choicest wine.

These gentlemen are very particular in their attentions to travelers, showing them through their cellars, and explaining the process of making the Sherry. When you get through it is generally difficult to distinguish a picture-gallery from a winecellar! Fortunately, there are no galleries in Jerez.

The houses of Jerez are generally wellbuilt, and much good taste is displayed in their ornaments. Notice the old Alcazar, with its two picturesque towers, the Casas Municipales, and the Collegiate Church.

One half hour from Jerez we arrive at Puerto de Santa Maria, or Port of St. Mary; it contains 20,000 inhabitants. It is situated on the right bank of the Guadalette; is one of the three great wine-exporting towns, but contains little that the traveler desires to see.

Cadiz, believed to be the oldest city in Europe, having been founded by the Phonicians 1100 years before Christ, contains 75,000 inhabitants. Hotel Fonda de Paris, admirably managed by the Fallola Brothers, who keep the De Paris at Madrid, the Paris at Seville, and Suiza at Cordova.

Cadiz is built upon the extremity of a narrow tongue of land which projects into the sea from the Isle of Leon. The isthmus which unites it with the larger portion of the island is strongly fortified, and the arm of the sea inclosed between it and the main land forms a magnificent bay, with fine anchorage. The city, consequently, is almost situated on an island bathed by the ocean on every side, with the single exception of the isthmus, across which one can throw a stone. The city is strongly fortified, and its appearance from the sea is very beautiful. It is considered one of the most agreeable cities in Anda

There are few "sights" to be seen in Cadiz with the exception of its ladies; and who, while strolling along the Alameda, will not remember the poet? "Oh, never talk again to me

Of northern climes and British ladies;
It has not been your lot to see,

Like me, the lovely girl of Cadiz.
Although her eye be not of blue,
Nor fair her locks, like English lasses,
How far its own expressive hue

The languid azure eye surpasses!
"Prometheus-like, from heaven she stole

The fire that through those silken lashes In darkest glances seems to roll,

From eyes that can not hide their flashes;
And as along her bosom steal

In lengthened flow her raven tresses,
You'd swear each clustering lock could feel,
And curled to give her neck caresses.
"Our English maids are long to woo,

And frigid even in possession;
And if their charms be fair to view,
Their lips are slow at Love's confession.
But born beneath a brighter sun,

For love ordained the Spanish maid is,
And who, when fondly, fairly won,

Enchants you like the Girl of Cadiz ? "The Spanish maid is no coquette,

Nor joys to see a lover tremble;
And if she love, or if she hate,

Alike she knows not to dissemble.
Her heart can ne'er be bought or sold-
Howe'er it beats, it beats sincerely;
And, though it will not bend to gold,
'Twill love you long and love you dearly.
"The Spanish girl that meets your love

Ne'er taunts you with a mock denial; For every thought is bent to prove Her passion in the hour of trial. When thronging foemen menace Spain, She dares the deed and shares the danger; And should her lover press the plain, She hurls the spear, her love's avenger. "And when, beneath the evening star, She mingles in the gay Bolero, Or sings to her attuned guitar

Of Christian knight or Moorish hero; Or counts her beads with fairy hand

Beneath the twinkling rays of Hesper,
Or joins devotion's choral band

To chant the sweet and hallow'd vesper;
"In each her charms the hearts must move
Of all who venture to behold her;
Then let not maids less fair reprove
Because her bosom is not colder:
Through many a clime 'tis mine to roam
Where many a soft and melting maid is,
But none abroad, and few at home,

May match the dark-eyed Girl of Cadiz." The Alameda is the favorite promenade of the rank and beauty of the city during the summer months, and occupies the

northeast ramparts of the city; and here the beautiful Gaditanes may be seen in all the elegance of native fashion.

Cadiz possesses two cathedrals. The oldest, which is used as a parish church, contains nothing, internally or externally, to attract attention.

The New Cathedral, adjoining the Old, was commenced during the early part of the 18th century, and has just been finished. The architecture of the interior is solid, grand, and impressive. The body of the church does not contain any paintings, the style of the architecture precluding their exhibition. It is divided into three immense naves, supported by 150 beautiful Corinthian columns. Notice, in the chapel of St. Therese, a splendid picture of that saint by Schott. Behind the high altar hangs a Conception, by Murillo. It also contains several fine statues.

In the chapel of the suppressed convent of the Capucins hangs Murillo's Marriage of St. Catharine. This artist fell from the scaffolding while painting it, and died in Seville a short time afterward in consequence. Murillo, who stands at the head of the Spanish school of painters, and whose works are so numerous in Spain, was born at Pilas, near Seville, in 1618. His great forte was ecclesiastical painting. He was very fond, however, of painting beggars, peasants, etc. He had three distinct styles of painting: his earliest, being based on Ribera, was strong and dark, with a marked outline, as exemplified in his beggar boys; his second was warm and full, with a decided improvement in coloring, but with his outlines clear and distinct, as we see in his "Loaves and Fishes," or "Moses striking the Rock," in the Caridad, at Seville; his third and last were his Virgins-vaporous, misty, and undefined. This style he adopted not only because it was the fashion of the times, but the demand for his pictures was so great he could not spare the time to finish them so highly nor draw them with so much precision. The King of Spain was a great admirer of his talents, and granted him letters patent of nobility.

There are two theatres in Cadiz, an a Plaza de Toros outside the walls. fighting is the great amusement of the citizens. The principal theatre is situated in the Calle de Lope de Vega. Here the Sarzuela-the Spanish comic opera-is performed to perfection. The drama and the Italian opera is also well represented. The Theatre del Balon is very pretty. Here the French and Spanish vaudevilles are performed. Cadiz, though fallen from its ancient greatness, possesses a most advantageous position, and is rapidly recovering its former prosperity. Any one who wishes to satisfy himself on this point had better visit the government dry-dock at Carracca, and see there 6000 men constantly employed. Take the cars to St. Ferdinando, time half an hour, then a calêche, or dyspeptic carriage (for which do not pay over four reals), to Carracca. The naval school establishments are very fine.

There are

Travelers wishing to return to England via Lisbon and Oporto may take steamers from Cadiz or from Gibraltar. several lines running, but they are both very irregular in time and price. You will always be able to ascertain at the hotel when ships intend sailing, by the printed bills affixed to the walls of the readingroom, or in the streets. We have never yet seen a guide-book that gave, or could give, the correct time. We were detained last winter over a week at Gibraltar, waiting for a steamer to Malaga, although it is said they sail every other day. The Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company have a line, and there are several Spanish or French lines between Cadiz and Lisbon. Time, 3 hours; fare 320 reals. Fare for embarking and disembarking, four reals each; also four reals each trunk.

LISBON (PORTUGAL).

Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is situated at the mouth of the Tagus. It has a population of 75,000 inhabitants. Hotels, Braganza and d'Alliance. The approach to the city is defended by the Castle of Belem; at this point the Tagus is not over a mile in breadth, but above Lisbon it exThe Museo contains a collection of paint-pands into a spacious and magnificent harings, but none of any great celebrity.

The Alameda Square is a great resort of the citizens. A band plays here on summer evenings.

bor, and the site of the city is one of the finest in the world, and admirably adapted to the purposes of commerce. The new part of the city (which occupies the site of

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That, shining far, celestial seems to be,
Disconsolate will wander up and down
'Mid many things unsightly to strange ee;
For hut and palace show like filthily;

The dingy denizens are rear'd in dirt;
No personage of high or mean degree

Doth care for cleanness of surtout or shirt, Though spent with Egypt's plague, unkempt, unwashed, unhurt."

OPORTO.

that portion destroyed by the earthquake | St. Peter's, to attract the eye, and fill it of 1755) is well built, contains fine houses, with wonder; yet I boldly say that there and wide, spacious streets; but the greater is no monument of man's labor and skill, portion consists of narrow, winding, and pertaining either to ancient or modern dirty streets; and it is now, as it was when Rome, for whatever purpose designed, Byron entered it, a very filthy city. which can rival the water-works of Lis"Whoso entereth within this town, bon; I mean the stupendous aqueduct whose principal arches cross the valley to the northeast of Lisbon, and which discharges its little runnel of cool and delicious water into the rocky cisterns within that beautiful edifice called the Mother of the Waters, from whence all Lisbon is supplied with the crystal lymph, though the Few cities in Europe have so few fine pub- source is seven leagues distant. Let travlic buildings as Lisbon. The Cathedral is elers devote one entire morning to inspecta large Moorish structure, situated on the ing the Arcos and the Mai das agoas, after slope of the hill on which stands the Cas- which they may repair to the English tello or citadel. Nearly all the hills are church and cemetery, Père la Chaise in crowned with churches and convents, and miniature, where, if they be of England, look like castles or palaces. One of the they may well be excused if they kiss the finest squares in the city is the Commer- cold tomb, as I did, of the author of 'Amecio, in the centre of which stands the eques- lia,' the most singular genius which their trian bronze statue of Joseph I.; on the island ever produced, whose works it has west side stands the Public Library; on long been the fashion to abuse in public the east the Custom-house, Exchange, and and read in secret. In the same cemetery East India House. A flight of steps de- rest the mortal remains of Doddridge, anscend from the square to the water. The other English author of another stamp, but Rocio is another fine square: in it stands justly admired and esteemed." the ruins of the palace of the Inquisition. Here autos da fé were once celebrated which so disgraced Portugal. The Church of the Martyrs should be visited: it is erected on the spot where Alphonso I. mounted the walls of Lisbon and took it from the Moors.

From the Rocio Square, or Plaza of the Inquisition, there are three or four streets that run to the river parallel with each other; the houses are huge, and as high as castles; and one of the streets, the Alemcrin, is occupied on either side by the palaces of the principal Portuguese nobility. Some of them are occupied by gold and silver smiths, and are named accordingly. Mr. Borrow says, in reference to the aqueduct, "With all its ruin and desolation, Lisbon is unquestionably the most remarkable city in the Peninsula, and in, perhaps, the south of Europe. It is not my intention to enter into minute details concerning it; I shall content myself with remarking that it is quite as much deserving the attention of artists as Rome itself. True it is that, though it abounds with churches, it has no gigantic cathedral, like

The railroad in progress to Madrid is now finished as far as Badajos, on the Spanish frontier. This strongly fortified city will well repay a visit. It is beautifully situated on the River Guadiana, and has sustained repeated sieges. It was taken by storm by the British army in 1812. It contains 1300 inhabitants, has some manufactures, and carries on a large contraband trade across the frontier.

The time from Lisbon to Oporto is 18 hours. The bar at the entrance to the harbor is difficult to cross, and steamers generally lie off the city unless the tides are favorable.

The famous red wine called Port, Oporto, Porto, which is so extensively produced in the adjoining district, derives its name from this city. It contains 100,000 inhabitants, is situated on the north bank of the River Douro, about two miles from its mouth, and is the second city in the kingdom. Although it has large manufactures of silk, linen, hats, etc., its chief dependence is on its very extensive wine trade. The city is surrounded by a wall flanked with towers. A quay extends its whole

length. The houses are generally well | ther be described by pen nor pencil, and built and whitewashed. On the summit at which the eye is never satisfied at gazof the surrounding hills, which encircle the city in shape of an amphitheatre, are the very elegant houses and gardens of the principal merchants. The Cathedral is a fine builing, dating back to the 12' century. The churches are numerous; the principal, Dos Clerigos, has one of the highest steeples in Europe. The Episcopal Palace, Hôtel de Ville, and Hospital are also fine buildings. It is connected with Villa Nova de Gaya, its principal suburb, by an elegant suspension bridge. On this side of the river are the immense vaults, or lodges, in which the wine is chiefly kept until it is stored. The exports of Port wine are immense, England alone importing nearly 30,000 pipes yearly. The shipments to the United States are also very large. The principal wine-growers and shippers in Oporto are Sandeman & Co. Their exclusive agents in the United States, C. Maletta & Co., Beaver Street, New York. The climate of Oporto is pleasant in summer, but damp and foggy during the winter.

The time from Oporto to Vigo is ten hours. Vigo stands upon the shores of a splendid bay, upon the lower slope of a lofty hill, favored by the elements on every side, and embosomed in a scene of surpassing beauty. Its harbor is one of the most spacious in Europe. The town contains 7000 inhabitants. It was here that the famous Armada started to subjugate England. It was here, also, that the united fleets of England and Holland triumphed over those of France and Spain, capturing and sinking some thirty ships. The town is protected by a strong fort at the top of the hill.

The time from Cadiz to Gibraltar is one day. Fare 90 reals by steamer. Of course you can make the trip by land, but the roads are bad, and there is little use of painting them on paper with "historical recollections" and "sunny South." The former can be called up as well in a railroad car as jolted out of you on a Spanish road, and the latter can be better enjoyed on a steamer than on the scorching side of a sand-hill.

Gibraltar.-This is the most singularlooking mountain in the world, and one which a celebrated writer says "can nei

ing." The name of this fortress is derived from the Moorish conqueror Gebel Tarik, or the Hill of Tarik, Gabel signifying hill, who contributed considerably to the conquest of Spain, having landed here in 711. It was retaken by the Spaniards under Guzman el Bueno in 1309, and was reconquered by the Moors in 1333, who held it up to the middle of the 15th century, when it was again retaken by the Spaniards under Juan Fetrijo and another of the Guzmans, in whose hands it remained until its conquest by the English in 1704. It was attacked suddenly by some English forces under Sir George Cooke, who only found eighty men in the garrison, who immediately ran away. George I. cared very little for its possession, and the English nation thought it but a barren rock not worth the charge. It was secured to England in 1713 by the peace of Utrecht. George III. offered it to Spain if she would refuse to sell Florida to Bonaparte. It was blockaded by the Spaniards in 1727 for several months without any success; but its most memorable siege was that which begun in 1779, and lasted four years. Here the whole combined forces of France and Spain, fleet and army, with immense floating batteries invented by Chevalier d'Arcon, were brought into action, but of no avail. The siege ended with two of the floating batteries being set on fire with red-hot shot. Their magazines blew up, and the garrison of the fort were obliged to rescue their perishing enemies from the flames and waves; since which time Gibraltar has remained not only the brightest gem in the crown of England, but a bridle in the mouths of France and Spain.

The population of Gibraltar is about 21,000, exclusive of the garrison of 6000. The principal hotels are the Club-House, King's Arms, and Spanish Hotel-all poor.

The fortress stands on the west side of a mountainous rock, projecting into the sea about three miles, being nearly three quarters of a mile in breadth. The north side, which connects it with the land, is perpendicular, and wholly unapproachable. The south and east sides are steep and rugged. The west side, fronting the bay on which the town is built, is the only one susceptible of access; but here the

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