resses; and having made presents to the janissaries, and distributed money among the slaves, we parted extremely well satisfied with each other. We had to cross the valley of Rephaïm to reach Bethlehem (in Arabic, Beyt el-lahm.) This name by which is denoted the house of bread,* is said to have been bestowed on it by Abraham it was likewise called Ephrata (the fruitful) to distinguish it from another Bethlehem belonging to the tribe of Zabulon. Here it was that David tended his flocks. Abesan, Booz, and Ruth were Bethlehemites. The primitive Christians built a small chapel containing the stable in which our Saviour was born; and in its place, the Emperor Hadrian erected the altar of Adonis, which was thrown down by the order of St. Helen, and on the ruins of which she built a spacious church, the form and architecture of which resemble those of the church of Saint Paul, without the walls of Rome. Forty-eight columns of Egyptian red marble support a wooden fabric said to be of cedar: the mosaics and paintings with which the walls are ornamented bear all the characteristics of the barbarism of the middle ages; but are in a better taste than the carvings of the capitals and bases of the columns. The Armenians are in possession of this temple. The monks, in full procession, led me to the subterraneous church: they there pointed out to me the spot where the magi stopped, and the one where our Saviour was born: all the chapels are incrusted with marble, jasper, and thin plates of gilt bronze: they are lighted by numberless gold and silver lamps. The convent is spacious. and enclosed by high walls: it has a strong resemblance to a fortress. The principal gate is very low and narrow, to guard against the Arabs making their way within on horseback, and in large bodies. There was a dreadful tumult at the time of my arrival: a contribution of ten thousand piastres had just been levied on the population of Bethlehem, exclusively composed of Christians. Cries and threats were to be It also signifies the house of flesh. heard on every side; but the good monks who are accustomed to these storms, did not on that account forbear the honours of their modest refectory which was spread out to us with all the display of the charitable and hospitable spirit I met with in other convents of Palestine. The inhabitants of Bethlehem cultivated a part of the coasts of Ramaof those coasts which heard the loud and pathetic plaints of Rachel. Of this resource they have since been de prived, and are now reduced to the necessity of making rosaries, wooden crosses inlaid with mother of pearl, and imitations of the crib these are all consecrated at the Holy Sepulchre, sold to pilgrims, and their produce paid to the Turks. The features of the daughters of Bethlehem are in general regular and their forms graceful: over the face a veil is thrown but without concealing it; and their arms are naked, and frequently of the finest form that can be imagined. We found them very affable and courteous. I visited several families; and on my departure, these good people accompanied me of fering up their prayers to heaven for my safety. The houses of Bethlehem, which are low and square, like those of Jerusalem, are covered with a terrace, or with a small dome: almost all the flights of stairs are without side. On leaving the city, the view of the right commands the mountains of Hebron, where they still point out to you the tomb of Abraham, and the valley of Mambré, where the ashes of Caleb repose. Still further are seen the mountains of Ergaddi, the hills of Odollam, the pointed rock which overlooks the cavern where David concealed himself to shun the fury of Saul, Massada, the vestiges of the fort of Herod, Bethulia, and the summits of Sennacherib. I was scarcely returned to Jerusalem, when I busied myself with the necessary preparations for my journey to the Dead Sea: the dread that the tranquillity of this country, at all times so precarious, might be disturbed, led me to hasten my departure for Jericho. Abdil-Kerym gave me, as an escort, four of the bravest and most determin ed horsemen of his guard, with a Christian drogoman who spoke bad Italian, and an Arab chief named Mehemet. I was also provided with a mamelouk, named Haggy Soliman who had been presented to me by the Pacha of Acre. Soliman was the gentlest and most charitable of men; and I should have been quite satisfied with him, if his zeal had not led him occasionally to overact his part, in driving away those who interrupted me in making my sketches. My servant followed me; the aga sent me excellent horses; and we were all well armed. At an early hour of the morning our caravan left Jerusalem by the gate of Setty-Mariam, and having crossed the torrent of Sedron, took the direction of Jericho, by the route of Bethany. It would have been difficult for me, if I had lost the tablets of my memory, to determine, by the temperature of the air, and the aspect of the fields, the precise epoch of this journey throughout all Judea, a few showers of rain are what alone indicate the winter season; the autumn does not bring her fruits; in the spring not a flower is seen to blow; and, nevertheless, the summer heats consume the Haceldama, and dry up the source of the Siloé. It would seem that there are not any seasons in this unhappy country. At Bethania the grotto in which Lazarus was buried is shewn to you. In his resurrection, painted by Rembrandt, that great master has so completely divined the spot where the scene passed, that one would almost be led to suspect him of having consulted the port-folio of a traveller. Having entered a narrow valley, we followed the bed of a torrent, which, after several windings, leads to mount Adomim: this is a reddish and argillaceous hill, uncultivated, like the ground we had hitherto trodden, and having on its summit the ruins of a monastery, or, perhaps, of a kan. Adomim in Hebrew signifies of blood. After having halted for half an hour, we entered ravines almost impassable, which appeared to be the effects of a recent convulsion of nature. While mountains, which could not be more aptly compared than to the solfatara of Naples, were to be seen furrowed by fire, and marked with the stains of sulphur. After having descended into frightful abysses, we were obliged to climb up sharp rocks, to procure a sight of the plain of Jericho, which we shortly after reached. Jericho, named by the Arabs Ryhad, is at present nothing more than an assemblage of huts built of earth and reeds, covered over with a species of dried fern. Where its celebrated walls once stood, fagots of briars and thistles now scarcely suffice to defend the flocks against the frequent attacks of wild beasts. The aga, to whom I had a letter from the governor of Jerusalem, inhabits a square tower in so ruinous a condition, that I found considerable difficulty in ascending to the apartment in which he was lodged. He was sick; and, judging without doubt of my credit, by the orders he received, begged of me to intercede with the motsallam to procure him an employment at Jerusalem. This chief of the spahis selected for my night's lodging the most convenient place he could find; for I could not endure the filth and bad smells of the habitation in which our caravan was assembled. My people took their stations around a large fire in the open air, and devoured a kid killed in our presence, a part of which was, however, consumed by the cinders. Wrapped in my mantle, and stretched on the earth, I slept soundly, notwithstanding this bad supper, and the interruptions of my guests; the notables of Jericho had thought proper to pay a visit to the Turks belonging to my escort; and the conversation that ensued was long and clamorous. We were stirring before day break: the sun arose behind the mountains of Arabia Deserta; their form was lost in a silvery, changeable vapour, shadowed with the richest tints, and the most beautiful colours. How much I regretted that I could not paint this fugitive and marvellous effect! * In Hebrew Jericho signifies the moon. 33 ATHENEUM VOL. 11. Jericho is situated in a plain. On the right appears the Dead Sea, partly concealed by the promontory of Segor. The Jordan is seen in the distance on the left, between hillocks covered with briars. Behind me were the mountains I had just passed, and the disorder and solitude of which made so lively an impression on me. The women of Jericho are dressed in a blue chemise, fastened by a girdle; their head is covered by a veil. Their legs and feet are naked, as likewise their arms, which are ornamented with bracelets of silver, pewter, or glass. They are for the greater part tall and slender; but their forms are usually shrunken; and among the youngest may be noticed a constant struggle between beauty and wretchedness, The aga of Jericho added to our escort a few of his people. We crossed a sandy plain, on which were to be seen, at distant intervals, a few prickly shrubs, and a few plants breathing the most delicate perfume. Several authors think that the crown of thorns of Jesus Christ was formed of a branch of the rhamnus, a shrub named by the Arabs *alausegi, and which is found in great abundance near the Jordan: several volumes have been written either to attack or defend the supposition. Its banks are frequently covered by locusts; the Arabs cook them with great care, and find their flavour excellent; but I was not tempted to taste this dish. Where, alas! are the gardens which once covered these banks ! Jericho is left without flowers, and without harvests. Sicut plantatio rosa in Jericho. Achor calls aloud for her refreshing streams; Asason-thamar bewails her forests of palms: a powerful hand has plucked up by the roots her beautiful vines. Botrus cypri dilectus meus mihi, in vineis Engaddi. We drew up in a regular line of march, a few of our men forming the advance-guard. The aga had received notice that a band of Bedouin Arabst had been seen on the preceding eve * Of two species: Aphros and anos. ning, and were to pitch their tents for the night on the opposite bank of the Jordan. Lances were perceived behind a rising ground, and horsemen fleeing in several directions: we set off at full speed in pursuit of them. A Bedouin was unhorsed, and fell among the reeds, just as he was plunging into the Jordan; he was overtaken by our mamelouks; the cimeters were drawn; and he would have perished if I had not asked his life, which Soliman found some difficulty in granting me. This Arab was so terrified, that it was a long time before he could find the power of utterance. He had come, with his companions, from the land of Hebron, to avenge the death of one of their cheyks, who had been killed three days before by the Bethelemites. spahis would not yield to my earnest entreaties to restore him to his mare, which neighed, and seemed conscious of her master's captivity; while his prayers and tears irritated them afresh. My A second time I had to rescue this poor Arab from their hands: he plunged into the Jordan, gained the opposite bank and disappeared. The banks of the sacred river, called by the Arabs el-Charia, are lofty, and covered with trees its water is yellowish, turbid, and of some depth; its breadth is about one-fourth less than that of the Seine. I made an exact drawing of the Jordan at the part where an islet, concealed by the trees and reeds, stops the current, occasions a reflux, and agitates a surface which in every other part is smooth and tranquil. Charmed with the soft murmurs of the water, to which our ears had been unaccustomed, we joyfully plunged into the stream. I discharged all the duties of the traveller, made my ablutions, and brought away with me a flask of the holy water we had found so much pleasure in drinking. Our horses experienced some difficulty in crossing the sandy plain which leads to the Dead Sea: my janissaries and Arabs sung, and discharged their pistols; Sol Arab, solitude; bedauoy, man of the desert, derived from bid, an uninhabited land. from twelve to fifteen feet. iman Aga, the chief of the escort, mounted on a superb Arabian horse, was the most dexterous; and I followed the example of my guides. We sometimes paced silently plunged in reveries, the subject of each of which was no doubt different; and at others, giving the reins to our horses, galloped over these sandy plains, breathing perfumes, and enjoying our independence. In this way I reached the banks of the Dead Sea or lake Asphaltites. It is said that this sea, or lake, is twenty leagues in length, and about ten leagues in breadth at the widest part. It is named by the Arabs Bahar Loth. They formerly tendered their services to travellers, to conduct them to a pillar coated with bitumen, which they showed as the pillar of salt; but it is impossible at present to penetrate so far without danger, the Bedouins in the vicinity, being in a state of constant warfare with travellers. For the greater part of its extent the Dead sea stretches north and south. On the western bank were situated the five cities of Sodom, Gomorrho, Adama, Seboyn, and Segor. The Jews are persuaded that at the coming of the Messiah, these cities, now covered with the waves, will re-appear with all their splendour. Et soror tua Sodoma et filiæ ejus revertentur ad antiquitatem suam. The general review of the Dead Sea, and of the mountains which surround it, made by me, was taken from the summit of a heap of shapeles ruins, said to be those of Gomorrho. They are opposite to mount Nebo, where Moses died, and at the foot of which he was buried. In searching on the sea shore the vestiges of these guilty cities, it was my good fortune to meet with the remains of walls, those of a tower, and several columns. The water of the Dead Sea is troubled, pungent and bitter. It throws up on its banks pieces of petrified wood, and porous stones in a calcined state. In speaking of it, which they do with the most religious respect, many mysterious things concerning it are related by the Arabs. A layer of a glutinous, saline, and corrosive substance covers the ruins, as well as the shore of lake Asphaltites. The vegetation which anciently followed the banks of the Jordan, from lake Tiberiades, has given place, near the Dead Sea, to small tufts of zaggoum and other shrubs, from which a precious balm is extracted. We afterwards followed, by the mountains, the route leading to the monastery of Saint-Sabas. I had never before met with any sight so dismal and sombre as that of the deep valleys which are suddenly shut in by a high mountain, perfectly white, and easily to be mistaken, at the decline of day, for an enormous spectre whose office is to defend the passage: the clefts and caverns represent his traits, and the ravines supply the folds of his frightful robe. Mountains of ashes, cones mutilated and thrown down, broken rocks of a capricious and fantastic form :such were the objects which met my view for the extent of several leagues, until I came to a more elevated point. This afforded me another sight of the Dead Sea, just as the sun was setting over Arabia Deserta, behind the mountains of Edom. Who is this that cometh from Edom, with dyed garments from Bosrah ? and I will tread them in mine anger, trample them in my fury; and their blood shall be sprinkled upon my garments, and i will stain all my rai(ISAIAH.) ment. From this elevation the Dead Sea appeared like a table of lapis lazuli, the golden margin of which was formed by the surrounding mountains. Still further, the piled rocks resembled, now a fortified city, the walls and buildings of which menaced the starry firmament, and now an amphitheatre having for its spectators and performers kites and vultures; while eagles soared majestically in the air, over their proud domain. The monastery of Saint Lebas is built in the angle of a rock, on an eminence four hundred feet above the dried torrent of the Cédron. I have never seen so frightful a solitude as this: the cells of the monks are excavated in a rock a hundred feet above the torrent, in places which appear to be inaccessible. Pigeons and thou sands of hermits formerly inhabited this auspicious and desolate valley: over the abyss the turtle-doves still take their lonely flight. The space inclosing the immense monastery, near which not a tree, nor a plant, nor even the smallest rivulet, is to be seen, is defended by large square towers. Two low narrow gates, covered with bands of iron and enormous nails, were inhumanly closed against us: the Greek monks, who thought the hour unseasonable, and were without doubt likewise terrified by the number of men composing our caravan, as well as by the impatience with which our solicitations were accompanied, refused us admission into the monastery. They spoke to us from the top of the ramparts, concealing themselves behind the battlements the negociation lasted for an hour; but neither the most importunate supplications, nor the strongest menaces' were of any avail. A jar filled with water, which had been long and anxiously expected, was lowered from the summit of a tower forty-eight feet in height. There the caloyers keep watch by night and by day, in constant dread of the Arabs, who frequently come in whole tribes to assail them. The latter take possession of all the avenues, until they make themselves sure of a contribution by a treaty. Our horses, exhausted by fatigue, were not in a state to proceed any further the night was dark; but still we were constrained to reach Jerusalem. Our Arab led us across places in a manner inaccessible, at the momentary risk of rolling down a precipice. I closed my eyes and abandoned myself to the prudent management of my horse, who sometimes slid along steep declivities, and at others stopped short, turned back, or stepped aside with surprising intelligence. The thunder howled tremendously over head; and it was not until two in the morning that a vivid flash of lightning afforded us a sight of Jerusalem. Another, of still greater intensity, shed its inauspicious ray over the valley of Jehosaphat, the Mount of Olives, and the tomb of Ezechias: had it not been for the incessant cries of our guides, the caravan would certainly have lost its way; for never was darkness more intense. After having, by a laborious ascent, reached Báb el-Naby Daoud, the gate of David, we discharged our blunderbusses and pistols, which at length awakened the guard, and we entered Jerusalem. On the following day I visited the church of the Holy Sepulchre, from which the convent of the Holy Land is distant about four hundred paces only. The streets of Jerusalem are crooked and badly paved; and the houses which are for the greater part built of free-stone, are indebted for a scanty portion of light to a small door and one or two windows provided with wooden lattices. In a few paltry shops, olives, fruits brought from Damascus, rice, corn, and a scanty supply of dried leguminous plants, are sold: while a group of Arabs, dying with hunger, eagerly survey these stores, the Turkish dealer smokes his pipe with indifference, as if utterly regardless of his profits. The convent of the reverend fathers, missionaries of the Holy Land, being situated in the most elevated part of the city, I had to descend, by a flight of steep steps, into the decayed vaults of Souq el-Nassâra, to reach the site of the Holy Sepulchre. The façade of this monument is a mixture of the moresque and gothic stiles of architecture : a square tower, deprived of its steeples, and levelled to the height of the church, has been thus mutilated since the epoch when the Turks regained possession of Jerusalem. The exact drawing made by me of this place will perhaps help the reader to form an idea of it. It was on a festival; the doors were thrown open; and pilgrims thronged either to enter or pass out. Turks, in the interim, squatted on a divan, mercilessly exacted the entrance-tribute: the ear was deafened by importunate cries, and blows were struck; while the crowd mingled with the processions as they crossed each other: the ensemble produced a tumultuous and afflicting spectacle. To be continued, |