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Mutton

from the infirmity of Age, are become no longer depend on the discretion of incapable of correcting habits, created the Cook.-For instance : by absurd indulgence in Youth, are en- Broth, Toast and Water, Water Grutitled to some consideration-and for el, Beef Tea, and PORTABLE SOUP. their sake, the Elements of Opsology This concentrated Essence of Meatare explained in the most intelligible will be found a great acquisition to the comfort of the Army-the Navy-the Traveller-and the Invalid-by dissolving half an Ounce of it in half a pint of hot water, you have in a few minutes, half a Pint of good Broth for three halfpence.

manner.

By reducing Culinary operations to something like a certainty, an Invalid will be less indebted to chance, or the caprice of careless attendants, &c. whether he shall recover-and Live long, and comfortably, or speedily Die of Starvation in the midst of Plenty. These Rules and orders for the regulation of the business of the Kitchen have been extremely beneficial to the Editor's own Health and Comfort. He hopes they will be equally so to others, they will help those who enjoy Health, to preserve it-teach those who have delicate and irritable Stomachs, how to keep them in good temper-and with a little discretion enable them to indulge occasionally, not only with impunity, but with advantage, in all those alimentary pleasures which a rational Epicure can desire.

There is no question more frequent ly asked-or which a Medical man finds more difficulty in answering to the satisfaction of Himself and his Patient than-What do you wish me to

eat?

The most judicious choice of Aliment will avail nothing, unless the Culinary preparation of it be equally judicious. How often is the skill of a pains-taking Physician counteracted by want of corresponding attention to the preparation of Food-and the poor Patient, instead of deriving Nourishment is distressed by Indigestion.

PARMENTIER, in his Code Pharmaceutique, has given a chapter on the preparation of Food--some of the following Receipts are offered as an humble attempt to form a sort of APPENDIX TO THE PHARMACOPEIA-like pharmaceutic prescriptions they are precisely adjusted by weight and measure, and in future, by ordering such Receipts of the Cook's ORACLE as appear adapted to the case-the recovery of the Patient, and the credit of the Physician, as far as relates to the administration of Aliment,-need

He has also circumstantially detail ed the easiest, least expensive, and most salubrious methods of preparing those highly finished Soups-SaucesRagouts and piquante relishes, which the most ingenious "Officers of the Mouth," have invented for the amusement of thorough bred " Grands Gourmands."

It has been his aim, to render Food acceptable to the Palate,-without being expensive to the Purse, or offensive to the Stomach-nourishing without being inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting,-constantly endeavouring to hold the balance even between the agreeable and the wholesome--the Epicure and the Economist.

In this Edition, which is almost entirely re-written,He has not printed one Receipt-that has not been proved in His own Kitchen-which has not been approved by several of the most accomplished Cooks in this Kingdom-and has moreover, been eaten with unanimous applause by a Committee of Taste, composed of some of the most illustrious Gastropholists of this luxurious Metropolis.

The Editor has been materially assisted by MR. HENRY OSBORNE, the excellent Cook to the late SIR JOSEPH BANKS:-that worthy President of the Royal Society was so sensible of the importance of the subject the Editor was investigating-that he sent his Cook to assist him in his arduous task

and many of the Receipts in this Edition, are much improved by his suggestions and corrections.

This is the only English Cookery Book which has been written from the Real Experiments of a HoUSEKEEPER, for the benefit of HOUSEKEEPERS, which the reader will soon perceive,

by the minute attention that has been employed to elucidate and improve the ART OF PLAIN COOKERY,-detailing many particulars and precautions, which may at first appear frivolousbut which experience will prove to be essential to teach a common Cook how to provide, and to prepare common Food-so frugally, and so perfectly, that the plain Family Fare of the most ECONOMICAL HOUSEKEEPER may, with scarcely any additional trouble--be a satisfactory Entertainment for an EPICURE or an INVALID. By an attentive consideration of THE RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY," and the respective Receipts-the most ignorant Novice in the business of the Kitchen-may work with the utmost facility and certainty of success,--and soon become A GOOD COOK.

Will all the other Books of Cookery that ever were printed do this ?-The Editor has patiently pioneered through upwards of Two HUNDRED COOKERY Books, before he set about recording these results of his own Experiments! STORE SAUCES and many articles of Domestic Comfort, which are extravagantly expensive to purchase, and can very seldom be procured genuine -He has given plain directions how to prepare at Home-of infinitely finer flavour, and considerably cheaper than they can be obtained ready-made.

The Receipts are not a mere marrowless collection of shreds, and patches, and cuttings, and pastings;-but a bona fide register of Practical Facts, -accumulated by a perseverance not to be subdued, or evaporated, by the igniferous terrors of a Roasting Fire in the Dog-days,-in defiance of the odoriferous and califacient repellents, of Roasting,-Boiling,-Frying, and Broiling-moreover, the author has submitted to a labour no preceding Cookery-Bookmaker, perhaps, ever attempted to encounter-having en each Receipt, before he set it down in his book.

They have all been heartily welcomed by a sufficiently well educated Palate, and a rather fastidious Stomach; -perhaps this certificate of the reception of the respective preparations will partly apologize for the Book con

taining a smaller number of them, than preceding writers on this gratifying subject, have transcribed, for the amusement of "every man's Master," the STOMACH.

Numerous as are the Receipts in former Books, they vary little from each other, except in the name given to them; the processes of Cookery are very few,-I have endeavoured to describe each, in so plain and circumstantial a manner, as I hope will be easily understood, even by the Amateur, who is unacquainted with the practical part of Culinary concerns.

OLD HOUSEKEEPERS may think I have been tediously minute on many points, which may appear trifling; my Predecessors seem to have considered the RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY quite unworthy of attention. These little delicate distinctions, constitute all the difference between a common and an elegant Table, and are not trifles to the YOUNG HOUSEKEEPER, who must learn them either from the communication of others, or blunder on till his own slowly-accumulating and dearbought experience teaches him.

A wish to save Time, Trouble, and Money, to inexperienced Housekeepers and Cooks,--and to bring the enjoy ments and indulgences of the Opulent within reach of the middle Ranks of Society, were my motives for publishing this book ;-I could accomplish it, only by supposing the Reader, (when he first opens it,) to be as ignorant of Cookery, as I was when I first thought of writing on the subject.

I have done my best to contribute to the comfort of my fellow creatures:— by a careful attention to the directions herein given, the most ignorant may easily learn to prepare Food-not only in an agreeable and wholesome,-but in an elegant and economical manner.

This task, seems to have been left for me, and I have endeavoured to collect and communicate in the clearest and most intelligible manner, the whole of the heretofore abstruse Mysteries of the Culinary Art; which are herein, I hope, so plainly developed, that the most inexperienced student in the occult Art of Cookery, may work from my Receipts, with the utmost facility.

I am perfectly aware of the extreme difficulty, of teaching those who are entirely unacquainted with the subject, and of explaining my ideas effectually by mere Receipts, to those who never shook hands with a Stewpan.

Our neighbours in France, are so justly famous for their skill in the affairs of the Kitchen, that the adage says, as many Frenchmen, as many Cooks." Surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most delicious Wines, and seducing Liquors, offering every temptation to render drunkenness delightful, yet a tippling Frenchman is a "rara avis."

They know how so easily to keep Life in sufficient repair by good eating, that they require little or no screwing up with liquid Stimuli.-This accounts for that "toujours gai," and happy equilibrium of the animal spirits, which they enjoy with more regularity than any people:-their elastic Stomachs unimpaired by Spirituous Liquors, digest vigorously, the food they sagaciously prepare and render easily assimilable, by cooking it sufficiently, wisely contriving to get half the work of the Stomach done by Fire and Water, till

"The tender morsels on the palate melt, "And all the force of Cookery is felt."

The cardinal virtues of Cookery, "CLEANLINESS, FRUGALITY, NOURISHMENT, AND PALATEABLENESS," preside over each preparation; for 1 have not presumed to insert a single composition, without previously obtaining the "imprimatur" of an enlightened and indefatigable" COMMITTEE OF

TASTE," (composed of thorough-bred GRANDS GOURMANDS of the first magnitude,) whose cordial co-operation I cannot too highly praise; and here do I most gratefully record the unremit ting, zeal they manifested during their arduous progress of proving the respective Recipes,-they were so truly philosophically and disinterestedly regardless of the wear and tear of teeth and stomach, that their Labour appeared a Pleasure to them.-Their landable perseverance,-which has enabled me to give the inexperienced Amateur an unerring and economical Guide, how to excite as much pleasure as possible on the Palate, and occasion as little trouble as possible to the Principal Viscera,

has hardly been exceeded by those determined spirits who lately in the Polar expedition braved the other extreme of temperature, &c. in spite of Whales, Bears, Icebergs, and Starvation.

Every attention has been paid in directing the proportions of the Compositions, not merely to make them inviting to the Appetite, but agreeable and useful to the Stomach ;-nourishing without being inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting.

I have written principally for those who make Nourishment the chief end of Eating*, and do not desire to provoke Appetite, beyond the powers and necessities of Nature;-proceeding however on the purest Epicurean principles of indulging the Palate, as far as it can be done without injury or of fence to the Stomach--and forbidding nothing, but what is absolutely unfriendly to Health.†

* I wish most heartily that the restorative process was performed by us poor mortals, in as easy and simple a manner, as it is in "the Cooking Animals in the Moon," who "lose no time at their meals; but open their left side, and place the whole quantity at once in their stomachs, then shut it, till the same day in the next mouth, for they never indulge themselves with food more than twelve times in a year." See BARON MUNCHAUSEN'S Travels.

Pleasing the Palate is the main end in most books of Cookery, but is it my aim to blend the toothsome with the wholesome; for, after all, however the hale Gourmand may at first differ from me in opinion, the latter is the chief concern; since if he be even so entirely devoted to the pleasure of eating, as to think of no other, still the care of his Health be comes part of that; if he is Sick, he cannot relish his Food.

"Although air is more immediately necessary to life than food, the knowledge of the latter seems of more importance; it admits certainly of great variety, and a choice is more frequently in our power. A very spare and simple diet has commonly been recommended as most conducive to Health ;-but it would be more beneficial to mankind if we could show them that a pleasant and varied diet, was equally consistent with health;

This is by no means so difficult a task, as some gloomy philosophers (uninitiated in culinary science) have tried to make the world believe---who seem to have delighted in persuading you, that every thing that is nice must be noxious; and that every thing that is nasty, is wholesome.

But as worthy Will Shakspeare declared he never found a philosopher who could endure the Tooth-ach patiently,--the Editor protests that he has not yet overtaken one, who did not love a Feast.

Those Cynical Slaves,--who are so silly,--as to suppose it unbecoming a wise man, to indulge in the common comforts of Life-should be answered in the words of the French philosopher, "Hey-What---do you Philosophers eat dainties?" said a gay Marquess. "Do you think," replied DESCARTES, "that God made good things only for Fools ?"

Every individual, who is not perfectly imbecile and void of understand ing, is an Epicure in his own way--the Epicures in boiling of Potatoes are innumerable--the perfecting of all enjoyment depends on the perfection of the faculties of the Mind and Body--the Temperate man, is the greatest Epicure,--and the only true Voluptu

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THE STOMACH, is the mainspring of our System,-if it be not sufficiently wound up to warm the Heart, and support the Circulation,--the whole business of Life, will in proportion be ineffectively performed,--we can neither Think with precision,-Sleep with tranquillity,-Walk with vigour,-or sit down with comfort.

There would be no difficulty in proving, that it influences (much more than people in general imagine) all our actions--the destiny of Nations has often depended upon the more or less laborious digestion of a Prime Minis ter-see a very curious Anecdote in the Memoirs of COUNT ZINZENDORF in Dodsley's Annual Register for 1762.

The philosopher Pythagoras, seems to have been extremely nice in eating,among his absolute injunctions to his disciples, he commands them, to" abstain from Beans."

This ancient Sage, has been imitated by the learned who have discoursed on this subject since--who are liberal of their negative--and niggardly of their positive precepts--in the ratio, that it is easier to tell you not to do this, than to teach you how to do that.

Our great English moralist Dr. S. JOHNSON, his biographer Boswell tells us, "was a man of very nice discernment in the science of Cookery," and talked of good eating, with uncommon satisfaction. "Some people," said he, "have a foolish way of not minding, or pretending not to mind what they eat for my part, I mind my Belly very studiously and very carefully, and I look upon it, that he who does not mind his Belly, will hardly mind any thing else."

as the very strict regimen of Arnard, or the Miller of Essex. These and other abstemious people, who, having experienced the greatest extremities of bad health, were driven to temperance as their last resource, may run out in praises of a simple diet; but the probability is, that nothing but the dread of former sufferings could have given them the resolu tion to persevere in so strict a course of abstinence; which, persons who are in health, and have no such apprehension, could not be induced to undertake, or, if they did, would not long continue.

"In all cases, great allowance must be made for the weakness of human nature; the desires and appetites of mankind, must to a certain degree be gratified, and the man who wishes to be most useful, will imitate the indulgent Parent, who whilst he endeavours to promote the true interests of his children, allows them the full enjoyment of all those innocent pleasures which they take delight in. If it could be pointed out to mankind, that some articles used as food were burtful, while others were in their nature innocent, and that the latter were numerous, various, and pleasant, they might, perhaps, be induced to forego those which were hurtful, and confine themselves to those which were innocent.“* See Dr. STARK's Experiments on Dict.

The Dr. might have said, cannot mind any thing else--the energy of our BRAINS is sadly dependent on the behaviourof our BOWELS*-those who say 'Tis no matter what we eat or what we drink,--may as well say, "Tis no matter whether we eat, or whether we drink.

The following Anecdote I copy from BOSWELL'S Life of JOHNSON.

Johnson.--I could write a better Book of Cookery than has ever yet been written ;---it should be a book on philosophical principles.--I would tell what is the best Butcher's Meat--the proper season of different Vegetables and then, how to roast, and boil, and to compound.

Dilly-Mrs. Glasse's Cookery, which is the best, was written by Dr. HILL.

Johnson,-Well, Sir-this shows how much better the subject of Cookery may be treated by a Philosopher ;--but you shall see what a book of Cookery I shall make, and shall agree with Mr. Dilly for the Copyright.

Miss Seward. That would be Hercules with the distaff indeed !--

Johnson. No, Madam; Women can spin very well,--but they cannot make a good Book of Cookery.

Mr. B. adds, I never knew a man who relished good eating more than he did when at Table, he was totally absorbed in the business of the moment; nor would he, unless in very high company, say one word, or even pay the least attention to what was said by others, till he had satisfied his Appetite.

The peculiarities of his constitution were as great as those of his character;

Luxury and Intemperance are relative terms-depending on other circumstances than mere quantity and quality. Nature gave him an excellent Palate, and a craving Appetite,--and his intense application rendered large supplies of nourishment absolutely neces sary to recruit his exhausted spirits.

The fact is,--this Great Man had found out, that Animal and Intellectual Vigourt are much more entirely dependent upon each other---than is commonly understood;---especially, in those constitutions, whose digestive and chylopoetic organs are capricious and easily put out of tune, or absorb the "pabulum vita" indolently and imperfectly,---with such, it is only now and then, that the "sensorium commune" vibrates with the full tone of accurately considerative, or creative energy.

Thus does the HEALTH always,--and very often the LIFE of Invalids, and those who have weak and infirm STOMACHS, depend upon the care and skill of the Cook.-Our Forefathers were so sensible of this,--that in days of Yore,-no man of consequence thought of making a day's journey without taking his "MAGISTER COQUORUM" with him.

A good Dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of human life;-and as the practice of Cookery is attended with so many discouraging difficulties, so many disgusting and disagreeable circumstances, and even dangers, we ought to have some regard for those who encounter them, to procure us pleasure, and to reward their attention, by rendering their situation every way

"He that would have a clear head, must have a clean Stomach." Dr.CHEYNE on Health, "We cannot reasonably expect tranquillity of the Nervous System, whilst there is disorder of the digestive organs. As we can perceive no permanent source of strength, but from the digestion of our food, it becomes important on this account, that we should attend to its quantity, quality, and the periods of taking it, with a view to ensure its proper digestion."---ABERNETHY'S Sur. Obs,

"If science can really contribute to the happiness of mankind, it must be in this department; the real comfort of the majority of men in this country is sought for at their own fire-side; how desirable does it then become to give every inducement to be at home, by directing all the means of Philosophy to increase Domestic Happiness."

"Health, Beauty, Strength and Spirits, and I might add all the faculties of the Mind, depend upon the Organs of the Body; when these are in good order, the thinking part is most alert and active, the contrary when they are disturbed or diseased."--Dr. CAF9GAN on Nursing Childre

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