« AnteriorContinuar »
from the infirmity of Age, are become no longer depend on the discretion of incapable of correcting habits, created the Cook. For instance : Mutton by absurd indulgence in Youth, are en- Broth, Toast and Water, Water Grutitled to some consideration-and for el, Beef Tea, and PorTABLE Sour. their sake, the Elements of Opsology This concentrated Essence of Meatare explained in the most intelligible will be found a great acquisition to the manner.
comfort of the Army-the Navy-the By reducing Culinary operations to Traveller--and the Invalid-by dissomething like a certainty, an Invalid solving half an Ounce of it in half a will be less indebted to chance, or the pint of hot water, you have in a few caprice of careless attendants, &c. minutes, half a Pirt of good Brother whether he shall recover-and Live for three halfpence. long, and comfortably, or speedily Die He has also circumstantially detailof Starvation in the midst of Plenty. ed the easiest, least expensive, and
These Rules and orders for the reg- most salubrious methods of preparing ulation of the business of the Kitchen those highly finished Soups-Sauceshave been extremely beneficial to the Ragouts--and piquante relishes,which Editor's own Health and Comfort. the most ingenious “ Officers of the He hopes they will be equally so to Mouth,” have invented for the amuseothers, they will help those who en ment of thorough bred “ Grands Gourjoy slealth, to preserve it-teach those mands.” who have delicate and irritable Stom It has been his aim, to render Food achs, how to keep them in good tem- acceptable to the Palate,—without beper--and with a little discretion enable ing expensive to the Purse, or offensive ihem to indulge occasionally, not only to the stomach-nourishing without with impunity, but with advantage, in being inflammatory, and savoury withall those alimentary pleasures which a out being surteiting, -constantly enrational Epicure can desire.
deavouring to hold the balance even There is no question more frequent- between the agreeable and the wholely asked-or which a Medical man some--the Epicure and the Economist. finds more difficulty inwanswering to In this Edition, which is almost the satisfaction of Himself and his Pa- entirely re-written, --He has rot printtient than-What do you wish me to ed one Receipt--that has not been eat ?
proved'in His own Kitchen-which The most judicious choice of Ali- has not been approved by several of ment will avail nothing, unless the the most accomplished Cooks in this Culinary preparation of it be equally Kingdom-and has moreover, been judicious.- low often is the skill of à eaten with unanimous applause by a pains-tuking Physician counteracted by Committee of Taste, composed of want of corresponding attention to the some of the most illustrious Gastrophpreparation of Food and the poor olists of this luxurious Metropolis. Patiếnt, instead of deriving Nourish The Editor has been materially asment—is distressed by Indigestion. sisted by Mr. Henry OSBORNE, the
PARMEXtier, in his Code Pharma- excellent Cook to the late Sur JOSEPH ceutique, has given a chapter on the BANKS :—that worthy President of the preparation of Food--some of the fol- Royal Society was so sensible of the lowing Receipts are offered as an huin- importance of the subject the Editor ble attempt to form a sort of APPEN- was investigating—that he sent his DIX TO THE PHARMACOPEIA--like Cook to assist him in his arduous task pharmaceutic prescriptions they are —and many of the Receipts in this precisely adjusted by weight and Edition, are much improved by his measure, -and in future, by ordering suggestions and corrections. such Receipts of the Cook's ORACLE This is the only English Cookery as appear adapted to the case-the Book which has been written from the recovery of the Patient, and the credit Real Experiments of a HOUSEKEEPER, of the Physician, as far as relates to for the benefit of HOUSEKEEPERS, the administration of Aliment, need which the reader will soon perceive,
by the minute attention that has been taining a smaller number of them, than employed to elucidate and improve the preceding writers on this gratifying subArt of PLAIN Cookery,—detailing ject, have transcribed,- for the amusemany particulars and precautions, ment of “every man's Master," the which may at first appear frivolous— STOMACH. but which experience will prove to be Numerous as are the Receipts in essential to teach a common Cook former Books, they vary little from how to provide, and to prepare com- each other, except in the name given mon Food-so frugally, and so per- to them ; the processes of Cookery are fectiy, that the plain Family Fare of very few, I have endeavoured to dethe most ECONOMICAL HOUSEKEEPER scribe each, in so plain and circummay, with scarcely any additional stantial a manner, as I hope will be trouble--be a satisfactory Entertain- easily understood, even by the Amameni for an EPICURE or an INVALID. teur, who is unacquainted with the
By an attentive consideration of practical part of Culinary concerns. THE RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY," and Old HOUSEKEEPERS may think I the respective Receipts----the most ig. have been tediously minute on many norant Novice in the business of the points, which may appear trifling -, Kitchen--may work with the utmost my Predecessors seem to have considfacility and certainty of success,--and ered the RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY soon become A Good Cook.
quite unworthy of attention. These Will all the other Books of Cookery little delicate distinctions, constitute all that ever were printed do this ?- The the difference between a common and Editor bas patiently pioneered through an elegant Table, and are not trifles to upwards of Two HUNDRED COOKERY the Young HOUSEKEEPER, who must Books, before he set about recording learn them either from the communithese results of his own Experiments! cation of others,—or blunder on till his
STORE SAUCES and many articles own slowly-accumulating and dearof Domestic Comfort, which are ex- bought experience teaches him. travagantly expensive to purchase, and A wish to save Time, Trouble, and can very seldom be procured genuine Money, to inexperienced Housekeepers -He has given plain directions how and Cooks ---and to bring the enjoyto prepare at Home-of infinitely finer ments and indulgences of the Opulent flavour, and considerably cheaper than within reach of the middle Ranks of they can be obtained ready-made. Society,—were my motives for pub
The Receipts are not a mere mar- lishing this book ;-I could accomplish rowless collection of shreds, and patch- it, only by supposing the Reader, es, and cuttings, and pastings ;—but (when he first opens it,) to be as ignoa bona fide register of Practical Facts, rant of Cookery, as I was when I -accumulated by a perseverance not first thought of writing on the subject. to be subdued, or evaporated, by the I have done my best to contribute to igniferous terrors of a Roasting Fire in the comfort of my fellow creatures : the Dog-days,-in defiance of the odo- by a careful attention to the directions riferous and califacient repellents, of herein given, the most ignorant may Roasting,-Boiling,-Frying,--and easily learn to prepare Food—not only Broiling :-moreover, the author has in an agreeable and wholesome, but submitted to a labourno preceding in an elegant and economical manner. Cookery-Bookmaker, perhaps, ever at This task, seems to have been left tempted to encounter-having eilen for me, and I have endeavoured to colcach Receipt, before he set it down in lect and communicate in the clearest his book.
and most intelligible manner, the whole They have all been heartily welcom- of the heretofore abstruse Mysteries of ed by a sufficiently well educated Pal- the Culinary Art; which are herein, I ate, and a rather fastidious Stomach; hope, so plainly developed, that the -perhaps this certificate of the recep- most inexperienced student in the oction of the respective preparations cult Art of Cookery, may work from will partly apologize for the Book con- my Receipts, with the utmost facility.
I am perfectly aware of the extreme TASTE,” (composed of thorough-bred difficulty, of teaching those who are GRANDS GOURMANDS of the first magnientirely unacquainted with the subject, tude,) whose cordial co-operation I and of explaining my ideas effectually cannot too highly praise; and here do by mere Receipts, to those who never I most gratefully record the unremitshook hands with a Stewpan.
ting, zeal they manifested during their Our neighbours in France, are so arduous progress of proving the respecjustly famous for their skill in the af- tive Recipes,-they were so truly phifairs of the Kitchen, that the adage losophically and disinterestedly regardsays, as many Frenchmen, as many less of the wear and tear of teeth and Cooks.” Surrounded as they are by a stomach, that their Labour appeared profusion of the most delicious Wines, a Pleasure to them. Their landable and seducing Liquors, offering every perseverance,—which has enabled me temptation to render drunkenness de- to give the inexperienced Amateur an lightful, yet a tippling Frenchman is a unerring and economical Guide, how to “ rara avis.”
excite as much pleasure as possible on They know how so easily to keep the Palate, and occasion as little trouLife in sufficient repair by good eating, ble as possible to the Principal Viscera, that they require little or no screwing has hardly been exceeded by those up with liquid Stimuli.—This accounts determined spirits who lately in the for that « toujours gai,” and happy Polar expedition braved the other exequilibrium of the animal spirits, which treme of temperature, &c. in spite of they enjoy with more regularity than Whales, Bears, Icebergs, and Staryaany people :—their elastic Stomachs tion. unimpaired by Spirituous Liquors, Every attention has been paid in digest vigorously, the food they saga- directing the proportions of the Comciously prepare and render easily as- positions, not merely to make them insimilable, by cooking it sufficiently,– viting to the Appetite, but agreeable wisely contriving to get half the work and useful to the stomach ;-nourishiof the Stomach done by Fire and Wa- ing without being inflammatory, and ter, till
savoury without being surfeiting. " The tender morsels on the palate melt,
I have written principally for those " And all the force of Cookery is felt.”
who make Nourishment the chief end
of Eating*, and do not desire to proThe cardinal virtues of Cookery, voke Appetite, beyond the powers and
CLEANLINESS, FRUGALITY, NOURISH- necessities of Nature ;--proceeding MENT, AND PALATEABLENESS," pre- however on the purest Epicurean prinside over each preparation ; for I have ciples of indulging the Palate, as far *not presumed to insert a single compo- as it can be done without injury or ofsition, without previously obtaining the fence to the Stomach--and forbidding - imprimatur" of an enlightened and nothing, but what is absolutely unindefatigable “ COMMITTEE OF friendly to Health.t
+ I wish most heartily that the restorative process was performed by us poor mortals, in as easy and simple a manner, as it is in the Cooking Animals in the Moon," whico " Jose no time at their meals; but open their left side, and place the whole quantity ar once in their stomachs, then shut it, till the same day in the next mouth, for they never indulge themselves with food more than twelve times in a year.” See BARON MUNCHA SEX' Travels.
Pleasing the Palate is the main end in most books of Cookery, but is il my aim to blend the toothsome with the wholesome ; for, after all, however the hale Gourmand :nay at first differ from me in opinion, the latter is the chief concern ; since if he be even so entirely devoted to the pleasure of eating, as to think of no other, still the care of his tealth be'. comes part of that ; if he is Sick, he cannot relish his Food.
+ “ Although air is more immediately necessary to life than food, the knowledge of the latter seems of more importance; it admits certainly of great variety, and a choice is more frequently in our power. A very spare and simple diet has commonly been ree: ommended as most conducive to Health ;-hut it would be more beneficial to mankind in we could show them that a pleasant and varied diet, was equally consistent with health ;
This is by no means so difficult a THE STOMACH, is the mainspring of task, as some gloomy philosophers (un- our System,-if it be not sufficiently initiated in culinary science) have tried wound up to warm the Heart, and supto make the world believe--who seem port the Circulation,--the whole busito have delighted in persuading you, ness of Life, will in proportion be inthat every thing that is nice must be effectively performed,--we can neither noxious; and that every thing that is Think with precision, -Sleep with nasty, is wholesome.
tranquillity,--Walk with vigour, ---or But as worthy Will Shakspeare sit down with comfort. declared he never found a philosopher There would be no difficulty in prowho could endure the Tooth-ach pa- ving, that it influences (much more tiently,--the Editor protests that he has than people in general imagine all out not yet overtaken one, who did not actions :---the destiny of Nations has love a Feast.
often depended upon the more or less Those Cynical Slaves ---who are so laborious digestion of a Prime Minissilly,--as to suppose it unbecoming a ter-see
a very curious Anecdote in wise man, to indulge in the common the Memoirs of Count ZINZENDORF in comforts of Life---should be answered Dodsley's Annual Register for 1762. in the words of the French philosopher, The philosopher Pythagoras, seems “Hey---What---do you Philosophers to have been extremely nice in eating,eat dainties ?" said a gay Marquess. among his absolute injunctions to his “ Do you think,” replied Descartes, disciples, he commands them, to “ ab" that God made good things only for stain froin Beans.” Fools ?”
This ancient Sage, has been imitated Every individual, who is not per. by the learned who have discoursed og fectly imbecile and void of understand- this subject since --who are liberal of ing, is an Epicure in his own way--the their negative--and niggardly of their Epicures in boiling of Potatoes are in- positive precepts---in the ratio, that it numerable---the perfecting of all en- is easier to tell you not to do this, thas joyment depends on the perfection of to teach you how to do that. the faculties of the Mind and Body- Our great English moralist Dr. S. the Temperate man, is the greatest Johnson, bis biographer Boswell tells Epicure,--and the only true Voluptu- us, " was a man of very nice discern. ary:
ment in the science of Cookery," and The PLEASURES OF THE TABLE, talked of good eating, with uncommon have been highly appreciated, and satisfaction. “ Some people,” said carefully cultivated in all Countries-- lie,“ have a foolish way of not mindand in all Ages.---and in spite of all ing, or pretending not to mind what the Stoics---every one will allow they they eat: for my part, I mind my Belly are the first and the last we enjoy,-- very studiously and very carefully, and and those we taste the oftenest,--above I look upon it, that he who does not a Thousand times in a Year, every mind his Belly, will hardly mind any Year in our Lives ! ! !
as the very strict regimen of Arnard, or the Miller of Essex. These and other abetemious people, who, having experienced the greatest extremities of bad health, were driven to temperance as their last resource, may run out in praises of a simple diet; but the probability is, that nothing but the dread of former sufferings could have given them the resolu. tion to persevere in so strict a course of abstinence; which, persons who are in health, and have no such apprehension, could not be induced to undertake, or, if they did, would not long continue.
"In all cases, great allowance must be made for the weakness of human pature; the desires and appetites of mankind, must to a certain degree be gratified, and the man who wishes to be most useful, will imitate the indulgent Pareat, who whilst he endeavours to promote the true interests of his children, allows them the full enjoyment of all those innocent pleasures which they take delight in. Irit could be pointed out to mankind, that some articles used as food were hurtful, while others were in their nature innocent, and that the latter were numerous, various, and pleasant, they might, perhaps, be induced to forego those which were hurtful, and confine themselves to those which were ionocent." See Dr. Stark's Experiments on Diet
The Dr. might have said, cannot Luxury and Intemperance are relative mind any thing else---the energy of terms--depending on other circumour Brains is sadly dependent on the stances than mere quantity and quality. behaviourof our Bowels*--those who Nature gave him an excellent Palate, say 'Tis no matter what we eat or and a craving Appetite--and his inwhat we drink,---may as well say, 'Tis tense application rendered large supno matter whether we it, or whether plies of nourishment absolutely neces. we drink.
sary to recruit his exhausted spirits. The following Anecdote I copy from Boswell's Life of JOHNSON.
The fact is ---this Great Man had Johnson.--I could write a better found out, that Animal and IntellecBook of Cookery than has ever yet tual Vigourt are much more entirely been written ;--- it should be a book on dependent upon each other,---than is philosophical principles.---I would tell commonly understood ;---especially, in what is the best Butcher's Meat--the those constitutions, whose digestive proper season of different Vegetables and chylopoetie organs are capricious and then, how 10 roast, and boil, and and easily put out of tune, or absorb to compound.
the “pabulum vitæ” indolently and Dilly.--Mrs. Glasse's Cookery, imperfectly,--with such, it is only now which is the best, was written by Dr. and then, that the sensorium comHILL.
mune" vibrates with the full tone of Johnson,--Well, Sir--this shows how accurately considerative, or creative much better the subject of Cookery energy. may be treated by a Philosopher ;-but Thus does the Health always,you shall see what a book of Cookery and very often the Life of Invalids, I shall make, and shall agree with Mr. and those who have weak and infirm Dilly for the Copyright.
STOMACHS, depend upon the care and Miss Seward. That would be Her- skill of the Cook ---Our Forefathers cules with the distaff indeed !... were so sensible of this---that in days of
Johnson.---No, Madam; Women Yore--no man of consequence thought can spin very well,--but they cannot of making a day's journey without make a good Book of Cookery. taking his “ MAGISTER COQUORUM"
Mr. B. adds, I never knew a man with him. who relished good eating more than he A good Dinner is one of the greatest did: when at Table, he was totally enjoyments of human life ;--and as the absorbed in the business of the mo- practice of Cookery is attended with so ment ; nor would he, unless in very many discouraging difficulties, so high company, say one word, or even many disgusting and disagreeable' cir. pay
the least attention to what was said cumstances, and even dangers, we by others, till he had satisfied his Ap- ought to have some regard for those petite.
who encounter them, to procure us The peculiarities of his constitution pleasure, and to reward their attention, were as great as those of his character; by rendering their situation every way
* "He that would have a clear head, must have a clean Stomach.” Dr.Cheyne on Health.
“We cannot reasonably expect tranquillity of the Nervous System, whilst there is dis. order of the digestive organs. As we can perceive no permanent source of strength, but from the digestion of our food, it becomes important on this account, that we should attend to its quantity, quality, ard the periods of taking it, with a view to ensure its proper digestion.”--- ABERNETHY's Sur. Obs,
† “ If science can really contribute to the happiness of mankind, it must be in this de partment; the real comfort of the majority of men in this country is sought for at their own fire-side ; how desirable does it then become to give every inducement to be at home, by directing all the means of Philosophy to increase Domestic Happiness."
“ Health, Beauty, Strength and Spirits, and I might add all the faculties of the Mind, depend upon the Organs of the Body ; when these are in good order, the thinking part is most alert and active, the contrary when they are disturbed or diseased."--Dr. Can. QGAN on Nursing Childrere,