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as comfortable and agreeable as we any one who has occasion to refer to can.*
two or three of them, will find the If we take a review of the Quali- Receipts almost always “ verbatim et fications that are indispensable in that literatim ;” equally unintelligible to highly estimable domestic, a complete those who are ignorant,—and useless Good Cook, we shall find that very few 'to those who are acquainted with the deserve that name.
business of the Kitchen. 66 God sends Meat” -- who sends My Receipts are the results of exCooks ?* the proverb has long saved us periments carefully made and accurate the trouble of guessing.
ly and circumstantially related; Of what value then is not this Book ? The Time requisite for dressing be-which will render every person of ing stated. common sense-a good Cook, in as lit The Quantities of the various artitle time as they can read it through at- cles contained in each composition betentively.
ing carefully set down in Number, If the Masters and Mistresses of Weight, and Measure. Families will sometimes condescend to This precision has never before been make an amusement of this Art, they attempted in Cookery books, but I will escape a number of disappoint- found it indispensable, from the imposments, &c. which those who will not, sibility of guessing the quantities intenmust suffer, to the detriment of both ded by such obscure expressions as their Health and their Fortune. have been usually employed for this
The author wishes he had more time occasion in former works. to devote to the subject. For an ingen For instance: a little bit of thisma ious Chemist, and an intelligent Cook, handful of that-a nip or an inch of might form a very complete work. t'other,--do 'em over with an Egg
I did not presume to offer any obser- and, a sprinkling of salt,-a dust of vations of my own, till I had read all flour,--a shake of pepper,-a squeeze that I could find written on the subject, of lemon,—or a dash of vinegar, &c. and submitted (with no small pains) to are the constant phrases ; season it to a patient and attentive consideration of your palate, (meaning the Cook's,) is every preceding work, relating to culi- another form of speech now, if she has nary concerns, that I could meet with. any,—it is very unlikely that it is in
These Books vary very little from unison with that of her employers,—by each other, except in the preface continually sipping piquante relishes, “ ab uno, disce omnes,” cutting and it becomes blunted and insensible, and pasting seem to have been much often- soon looses the faculty of appreciating er employed than the Pen and Ink : delicate flavours,—so that every thing
* It is said, there are seven chances against even the most simple dish being presented to the Mouth in absolute perfection ; for instance a LEG OF Mutton.
1st.- The Mutton must be good,
7th.-Good Appetite. The Meat, and the Mouths which are to eat it, must be ready for each other, at the same moment !
+ "She must be quick and strong sighted; her hearing most acute, that she may be sensible when the contents of her vessels bubble although they be closely covered, and that she may be alarmed before the pot boils over : her auditory nerve ought to discrim. inate (when several saucepans are in operation at the same time) the simmering of one, the ebullition of another, and the full toned warbling of a third.
“ It is imperiously requisite that her organ of smell be highly susceptible of the rarious effluvia, that her nose may distinguish the perfection of aromatic ingredients, and that in animal substances it shall evince a suspicious accuracy between tenderness and putrefaction: above all, her olfactories should be tremblingly alive to mustiness and empyreuma. It is from the exquisite sensibility of her palate, that we admire and judge of the Cook; from the alliance between the olfactory and sapid orgaus it will be seen, that their perfection is indispensable."
is done at random. These Culinary Turtle,) is scrupulously exact even to a technicals are so differently understood grain, in his ingredients; whilst Cooks by the learned who write them and the are unintelligibly indefinite, although unlearned who read them, and their they are intrusted with the administra
rule of Thumb' is so extremely indefi- tion of our food, upon the proper qualnite,-ihat if the same dish be dressed ity and preparations of which, all our by different persons, it will generally powers of Body and Mind devend; be so difierent, that nobody would im- their Energy, being invariably, in agine they had worked from the same the ratio, of the performance of the directions, which will assist a person restorative process, i. e. the quantity, who has not served a regular appren- quality, and perfect digestion of what ticeship in the Kitchen, no more than we eat and drink; and a sufficient porreading “ Robinson Crusoe,” would tion of sound Sleep," the balm of hurt enable a Sailor to steer safely from Eng- minds, chief nourisher in life’s feast, land to India.
great Nature's second course.". Careless expressions in Cookery are Unless the Stomach be in good huthe more surprising, as the Confection- mour, every part of the machinery, of er is regularly attentive, in the descrip- life must vibrate with languor ;-can tion of his preparations, to give the ex we then be too attentive to its adjustact quantities, though his business, com- ment !!! pared to Cookery, is as unimportant, Thus, the table of the most Econas the Ornamental is inferior to the omical Family, may, by the help of Useful.
this Book-be served with as much The maker of Blanchmange, Cus- delicacy and salubrity, as that of a tards, &c., and the endless and useless Sovereign Prince,-and the comforts collection of pretty playthings for the of the Opulent are brought within Palate, (of first and second childhood, the reach of the Middle Ranks of for the vigour of manhood seeketh not Society. to be sucking Sugar-candy, or sipping
HOLMAN, THE BLIND TRAVELLER.*
(Literary Gazettc.) THE remarkable circumstances of pressions would have been a pleasing
an extensive tour written by a publication ; but such a practical essay Blind Traveller recommends this sing- as this journal exhibits, introducing all ular volume to an early notice. But the facts incidentally, as called forth by this is not the only claim of Mr. Hol- events, and not dwelling upon them man's pages to our attention. They longer than consists with a modest and are in themselves agreeable ; and they lively narrative, possesses still greater offer to the reflecting mind curious phe- attractions for the reader. The simnomena to trace, which are not to be plicity, the candour, and the ardour of - discovered in the travels of many who Mr. H. are quite delightsul ; and his journey with their eyes wide open. disposition appears to be altogether so The impressions made by noble cathe- amiable, that we do not wonder at his drals, by exquisite works of art, by na- meeting with civilities every where, ture, by the difference of manners in though almost a stranger to the lansociety, upon an author in whom
guages of the countries through which
he travelled with an independence of Wisdom (is) at one entrance quite shut out,
spirit and confidence in himself, the are not only extraordinary but highly possible existence of which, in his dark instructive. An Essay upon such im- situation, can hardly be conceived.
* The Narrative of a Journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820, 1821, throngh France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, Holland, &c. comprising Incidents that occurred to the Author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight. By James Holman.
48 ATHENEUM VOL 11.
The volume is dedicated by permis- as we learn from the story of his first sion to the Princess Augusta ; and the evening's adventures : author in his preface thus apologises for « On returning to the Hotel, I parany errors into which he may have fal- took for the first time of a French diolen :
ner; and, the commissionaire having “ The want of vision must frequent- left me, had the advantage of being ly make his observations and descrip- waited upon by Paul the garçon, who tions imperfect; to compensate for this, did not understand one word of Enghe has availed himself of such intelli- lish; I had no little difficulty in getting gence as he could derive from others; through the routine of this important and, for the same reasons, has introdu- repast. In the evening, Virginie, the ced a variety of extracts from interest- fille-de-chambre, attended to put me to ing authors, which appeared desirable bed, and appeared literally to have exto elucidate or enliven his parrative. pected to assist in the various operations
“ He rests his chief hope of the ap- of disrobing, &c. I was, however, enprobation of the public, upon having abled, through the medium of the comgiven a plain and faithful statement of missionaire, to assure her, that it was a journey, which must be regarded as quite unnecessary to give her that troupossessing a degree of originality, ari- ble. So dismissing my attendants with sing from the peculiar circumstances the candle, I secured the door, and reunder which it was undertaken. tired to rest."
“ He now concludes his prefatory Such dilemmas were not unfrequent ; matter, by soliciting the indulgence of afterwards, for instance, travelling in his readers, and entreating them not to the voiture near Toulouse, Mr. H. recriticise with too much severity, a work latesc which, he trusts, has some claims upon “My companions appeared to enjoy their forbearance; and which, if it hap- their repast, and every additional glass pens to repay their perusal by any plea- evidently produced increased animation, surable emotion, or to excite a kind as they talked louder and faster. They sympathy for his own situation, will were, however, particularly attentive to have answered the fullest expectation of myself, my want of sight probably exits author.”
citing their sympathy. Interested, as every breast must be, “ At length, fatigued with the scene, by such an appeal, we proceed with no I retired to my chamber, which was caunfriendly emotions to give our brief ab- pacious, and furnished with several stract of Mr. Holman's labours : beds, and had the pleasure of finding
He set out from Dover in November the one which had been selected for my 1819, and was duly wasted over to Ca- repose, good and commodious. But lais-where he says
an important dilemma now presented “ Behold me, then, in France ! sur- itself : taking the fille-de-chambre by rounded by a people, to me, strange, the hand, in order to ascertain that she invisible, and incomprehensible ; sepa- was carrying the candle away with her, rated from every living being who could a point I am always particular in atbe supposed to take the least interest in tending to, as, when it has been left bemy welfare, or even existence; and ex- hind, I have occasionally burnt my posed to all the influence of national fingers, and once even made an extinprejudice, which is said to prompt this guisher of my chin; and then making people to take every advantage of their a motion to lock her out, that I might, English neighbours. To counteract according to the especial clause in my these disadvantages, I had nothing but agreement to that effect, appropriate the common feelings of humanity, which the room entirely to myself, I was surmight be elicited in favour of an unfor- prised to find her as strenuously oppose tunate person like myself, assisted by this measure, as most of the fair sex, I the once boasted politesse of the great have no doubt, would an attempt to nation."
lock them in. It was useless endeavThe politesse spoken of is sometimes ouring to comprehend her meaning, a little ludicrously inconvenient to him, and only by returning to the supper.
room did I learn that the room in ques- five minutes or an hour, when they tion was intended for the accommoda- told me it meant "immediately." I tion of the whole party. It is not easy could not but think however, as far as to conceive the confusion which ensued, my experience extended, that the word on my evincing a steady determination and the action did not, in the present not to pass the night by the side of the instance, suit each other.” conducteur, or even the ladies of our This ás toute a l'heure” often plagues party; I persisted, however, in my him in his future course, and a notable resolution, and folding my arms, and example of it occurs in his journey from closing my eyelids, reclined, in the pos- Paris to Bordeaux, which we will exture of repose, in a large easy chair in tract : which I happened to be placed.
“ About nine o'clock on the follow“At this juncture, the bootmaker's ing morning, being Sunday, the 31st of wife, taking me by the hand, conducted October, one of our company exclaimme to a single-bedded room, from which, ed, “ Voila Bordeaux !" The sound reafter having assisted in my arrange vived me exceedingly, for I was become ments, and warmed my bed, she per- irritable and impatient, from the length mitted me to lock her out.
and fatigue of the journey. At twelve “ 1 cannot but express myself grate- o'clock the coach halted, and my felful, for the interest this kind-hearted low-passengers immediately jumped woman evinced in my favour, on the out, leaving me to shist for myself
. Of present occasion ; but this is not the course I concluded that we had arrived only time that I have been indebted for at the coach-office, and began to call support and success to a fair advocate.” out loudly for the conducteur to come It must have been amusing to ob- and assist me in getting out.
He imserve the effect of Mr. Holman's ap- mediately presented himself, uttered the pearance upon the population of the now well-known "toute a l'heure," and Auberges, &c. as he passed on. They left me. Although I perfectly recolmust have felt that the English mania lected the unlimited signification of this for seeing foreign lands was inconceiv- word in Paris, what could I do? Had ably strong, since even the physically I jumped out, I should not have known blind were following the footsteps of what step to have taken next, and the the multitude of mentally blind, to rain was falling in torrents. There apwhom they were already accustomed. peared no remedy, but to sit patiently
Our countryman stopped about a until it might please sonre one to come week in Paris, at a boarding-house, to to my assistance.
In a little while I accustom himself to the language, of heard at least 30people around the coach, which his ignorance is stated in a way talking a loud and unintelligible gibberplein de bonhomie.
ish, quite unlike any language of the “On the morning after my entrance country which I had hitherto heard ; into this family, I rang the bell of my soon afterwards I perceived the carriage bed-chamber, and requested a French undergoing an extraordinary and irregservant to bring me hot water; in an- ułar kind of motion ; the people occaswer to this he replied,“ toute a l'heure,” sionally opened the door, and made me with the meaning of which I was at move from one side to the other, as if the time totally ignorant: after waiting they were using me for shifting ballast; a quarter of an hour, I rang again, and I inferred that they were taking off the received the same reply, « toute a wheels with a view of placing the carl'heure," but with no better result: I a- riage ouder cover. After this I became gain repeated my application, it was sensible of a noise of water splashing, still “ toute a l'heure :” at length, after as if they were throwing it from out of the lapse of an hour, he brought the hollows, where it had collected in conwater. At breakfast, I took the op- sequence of the rain. It was in vain portunity of inquiring the signification that I endeavoured to gain an explanaof this convenient expression, request- tion of my being thus left behind in the ing to be informed, whether it implied coach, the only satisfaction I could de
rive was toute a l'heure," and the con A short time before my departure viction that nothing remained for me from Montpellier, I had the misfortune but to be patient.
to sprain my ancle, which abridged ma" But patience is more oft the exercise
terially my usual pleasure of walking, Of saints, the trial of their fortitude."-Milton. but did not prevent me pursuing my O
66 At length the motion began to in- riginal intention of proceeding to Aix. crease, and to my great surprise, after « M. de C— was kind enough to an hour's suspense, I heard the horses accompany me to the coach, and, with again attached to the carriage; the pas- the best possible motives, recommendsengers re-entered the coach, and we ed me to the care of the passengers and once more proceeded on our journey! conducteur, but which I must admit I
“ It was afterwards explained to me, would rather have declined, as it disthat these unaccountable proceedings a- armed me of that independencel wished rose, on our having arrived on the banks to feel; I fancied it was placing me in of the river Dordogne, which enters the the light of a school-boy; or perhaps Garonne, near Bordeaux, from the ne- a package of " Glass.- Keep this side cessity, at this point, of transporting the uppermost.” I would prefer being carriage on a raft for some distance treated with the little ceremony of a down the stream ; that the passengers wool pack, which by its accommodating had crossed the river in a ferry-boat, to elasticity, not only avoids injury from a coach waiting for them on the other slighter contact, but under more decided side, leaving me to float down with the and ruder pressure, becomes so solid
, carriage on the raft, or sink to the bot- so confirmed, so compact, as effectually tom as fate might determine ; in short, to oppose additional restraint, and proI found that, while I supposed myself bably at length by its innate powers, to sitting in the coach-office yard at Bor- throw off the superincumbent weight
, deaux, I had actually travelled four and immediately regain its original niles by water, without having enter- state ; in short, I find less difficulty and tained the least idea of such an adven- inconvenience in travelling amongst ture.
strangers, than people imagine, and pre“ In a quarter of an hour after this, fer being left to my own resources ; we actually arrived at the coach-office.” habit has given me the
From Bordeaux Mr. H. went to Tou- quiring by a kind of undefinable tact, louse, and thence to Montpelier, where as correct ideas of objects as the most he tells us,
accurate descriptions would give ; and “ On leaving the coach, I accompa- unbiassed by the opinions of others! nied a gentleman with whom I had been feel more facility in forming my estiacquainted at Toulouse, and who had mates of human nature.” been a fellow-traveller on the present Having visited Nismes, Ais, and occasion, to his lodgings in this town ; other places, Mr. H. took up his resibut on his arrival, he met with the fol- dence at Nice, where he enjoyed every lowing disappointment. During bis comfort ; and gives us the following aeabsence, on legal business, he had per- counts of various matters which attractmitted some friends to occupy his rooms, ed his observations there and at St. Roone of whom happened to die in his salie, a rural abode of Madame Mbest chamber. Now it is customary in and two daughters, near the city: France, on such an occasion to burn
“ The process of making the wine is the bedding and other furniture, and in as follows:- The grapes being selected case of this happening in lodgings, the and picked, are put into a large val; friends of the deceased are expected to where they are well trodden down by the pay for them; the charge, in the pres. naked feet ; after which the liquor is ent instance, was eight hundred francs, drawn off from below; the bruised and the furniture had not been replaced; grapes are then put into a
press, my friend, therefore, was induced to the renaining liquor extracted. Tlie provide himself with fresh rooms.”' whole of the juice is now put into casks
His sensations are admirably de- with their bungs open, and allowed to cribed in the following passage :
ferment, and discharge its impurities