for twelve, fifteen, or twenty days, according to the strength of the grape; the waste occasioned by the discharge being constantly supplied with fresh liquor. The vessels are then carefully closed, and in about a month the wine is considered fit for drinking.

"When the grapes are of a bad, meagre kind, the wine-dealers mix the juice with pigeon's dung, or quicklime, in order to give it a spirit which nature has denied, or, possibly, to take off acidity.

"The air becoming sensibly cooler, it was determined to remove to our winter quarters in Nice, leaving St. Rosalie to its peasantry, now about to commence getting in the olives, and express the oil, which is the richest part of their harvest. The best olives are those which grow wild, but the quantity of these is inconsiderable; they begin to collect them in the early part of November, and this is repeated at intervals until March or April; the fruit is beaten off the trees with long canes as it ripens, which is known by its turning from a light green to a very dark colour. The oils must be expressed immediate ly, and before the olives fade or grow wrinkled, otherwise it will not be good. The whole are, in the first instance, ground into paste by a mill-stone, set edgeways in a circular stone trough, and turned by a mule or the power of water; this paste is then put into cases, made of the same kind of grass which is so much used in the Mediterranean for the manufacture of ropes and cables; six or eight of which are piled one over the other, and then subjected to a powerful press for a few minutes, by which the oil is forced out, and received into a stone reservoir placed beneath it. While the oil is passing from the press, hot water is frequently dashed over it, to make it flow the better. The whole fluid is now transferred into a wooden vat, half filled with water, in which the dregs fall to the bottom, while the supernatant oil is skimmed off, and stored up in small oblong casks. The remnant is now thrown into a large stone cistern containing water, and allowed to continue there twelve or fourteen days, frequently stirring it during that time; a coarser oil

is then taken from its surface, which serves for the purpose of burning in lamps, or in manufactories. After these processes, they separate an oil still more coarse and fetid, and occasionally grind the paste down with hot water, which extracts a yet greater quantity of oily matter, but which in this case soon grows rancid.

"The dregs which remain after these operations, when dried, are used as a fuel; particularly for warming, by means of brasieres, apartments without chimneys.

"There is however, a very peculiarly fine preparation, called virgin oil, and which is a great delicacy, eating like the sweetest butter; this is made from green olives, and sold at a high price, as a great quantity of the fruit yields but little oil.

"In many streets [of Nice] you are annoyed by the thumping of machinery, employed in the manufacture of macaroni, and which is required to force it into its tubular form. The following is the process for manufacturing the ordinary kind of macaroni or vermicelli : Equal parts of fine and coarse flour are mixed together, and made into a paste with water, to which a small quantity of saffron has been added to give it a yellow tinge. The whole is then kneaded into a stiff paste, by means of a beam of wood, which is worked by two or three men on the principle of the lever; after which it is put into a strong cylinder of copper, with perforations in its bottom, of such size as may be necessary to give the form of macaroni or vermicelli, which It is then ever may be intended. forced through these apertures into its tubular shape by a powerful screw, and cut of proper lengths as it comes out, after which it is hung up in the air to

harden."

From Nice our traveller sailed for Genoa in a felucca, when a storm furnishes him with an affair quite in Sterne's way: being as he confesses,

"For two nights and a day in the cabin of a vessel and scarcely within hearing of a living soul, with a young married female of five-and-twenty, and whom my imagination might lead me to suppose beautiful as an Houri; with

out pen, ink, paper, table, or any other requisite to arrange our affairs by, and quite unprovided with curtains, and corking pins, as in the case of our sentimentalist, to prevent even the impulse of a hand in the act of exclamation. The whole of this time passed away like a night to me; for as it was cold, we shut ourselves up close, to keep out the wind and rain; like our sailors on the northern expedition, during this state of confinement, it made no difference, whether we dined in the night or day, for it was just as easy for me to serve out our provisions in the former as in the latter; and with respect to sleep, I think I had the best of it in the day-time, as the lady's fears were the less on the qui vive, for whenever the sea at night struck us a little harder than usual, she would cry out in terror, "Monsieur! Monsieur ! nous sommes contre les roches," and I must have had a heart of rock, had I not poured in all possible consolation : 1 had the pleasure indeed of thinking that the assurances of my animated tongue were not less serviceable to her than the enjoyment of my lingua mortua, which no doubt contributed very efficaciously to support her strength and spirits, for I soon found by the lightness of the basket, that her own stores were insufficient for so prolonged a voyage, or, as sailors would express it, that she was in danger of experiencing a southerly wind in the bread-bag."

Genoa is succeeded in the tour by Leghorn, and Leghorn by Florence, Florence by Rome, and Rome by Naples. From the remarks at these places we shall, as hitherto, enlarge our exemplification of the work, selecting such as most strikingly illustrate the writer's peculiar feelings and circumstances, and then leave the volume to its fortunes. At Florence he says

"I visited the Theatre Cocomero, and heard the Barber of Seville, an opera so well known that it would be superfluous to enter into any description of it; but I cannot resist stating the extraordinary effect produced upon me by the singing of the prima Donna. I thought I could have given the world to have seen her pretty face and figure; the tones and expressions of her voice,

however, appeared to connect themselves in my mind, by pure sympathy, with exact delineations of her person and attitudes, and to excite the most powerful desire to possess the power of vision, which I ever recollect to have experienced since I had the misfortune to lose it. I heard, I felt, I saw or imagined I saw, every thing which words, gestures, and actions could convey: I rose, leaned forward, and felt an almost irresistible impulse to spring upon the stage, to ascertain whether my ideas were illusive or real; and what may be thought still stranger, my desire to see, appeared to originate from a wish to convince myself that I could not see. I may be thought to overcharge this description with too vivid or affected sentiment, but I can assure the reader, that it contains only a small portion of the exquisite feelings which I experienced."

In the Vatican at Rome he says

"This coup d'œil, with me, was not only wanting, but I had to walk up to each statue in rotation, and listen to a tame description of its beauties. I was even not allowed the advantage of examining by the touch, as soldiers were placed in each apartment to prevent such violation: had I been freely permitted this kind of examination, I doubt not that I might have been as highly gratified as those who saw, for the sense of touch conveys to my mind as clear, or at least as satisfactory, ideas of form, and I think I may add, the force of expression, as sight does to others. I did occasionally examine them in this way by stealth, when I was apprised that the soldiers' backs were turned towards me."

At Sentinella, near Naples, donkeymen offer their animals for hire, and Mr. H. observes,

"On laying my hand on one of these asses, I was astonished at the silkiness of its skin; but I believe the hair of all animals is proportionably softer in southern climates, probably in consequence of the superficial pores being more open. I have heard, and it appears probable, that the nerves of the cuticle, as of the finger, are more sensible in warm latitudes; and that this is the reason why the silks, and other fine

works, in such countries, are of more delicate texture, than what are manufactured elsewhere."

But his ardour is most strikingly evidenced by his determining, in spite of all dissuasion, to ascend Vesuvius !—a feat of curiosity which perhaps no love f science, ancient or modern, will be thought to surpass. The following is his relation :

"Notwithstanding the representations made to me on all sides, of the difficulties which must attend it, my desire to visit Mount Vesuvius was of so ardent a nature, that I certainly should have made the attempt alone, had not a friend, Mr. M—, kindly volunteered to accompany me, but from whom, I have the vanity to say, I rather looked for amusement and information, than guidance and protection.

"My friends endeavoured to dissuade me from this arduous undertaking, and when, after fully deciding upon the measure, I inquired in what way it was customary for others to make the ascent, replied, "Oh! they could see their way up." ." "Well, then," I retorted, "I have little doubt of being able to feel mine." I must acknowledge myself annoyed by having suggestions of difficulties persisted in, which, I feel sensible in my own bosom, do not insuperably exist; nor can I admit any person not in the same situation with myself, capable of estimating the powers, which under the curtailment of one sense, another in consequence, acquires. "We reached the hermitage about half after eight o'clock, and at the suggestion of our guide, recruited ourselves with some of the hermit's bread and wine; and then began the more arduous part of our journey. The road soon became very soft, being constituted of the light dust which had been thrown out of the crater; interspersed, however, with large and sharp stones, ejected from the same source; some of which were of such immense size, that did we not bear in mind the astonishing powers of elementary fire, we could scarcely credit the possibillity of such masses being hurled to this distance, from out of the bowels of the mountain.

"One of the greatest inconveniences I found in this ascent, was from the

particles of ashes insinuating themselves within my shoes, and which annoyed my feet so much, that I was repeatedly compelled to take them off, in order to get rid of the irritating matter. Hence I would recommend future travellers to ascend in white leathern boots.

"At length we reached the only part of the mountain which was at this time in a burning state, and which was throwing out flames and sulphurous vapour; when the guide taking me by the arm, conducted me over a place where the fire and smoke issued from apertures between the stones we walked upon, and which we could hear crackling under our feet every instant, as if they were going to be separated, and to precipitate us into the bowels of the mountain. The sublime description of Virgil did not fail to occur to my recollection.

"By turns a pitchy cloud she rolls on high,
By turns hot embers from her entrails fly,
And flakes of mounting flames lick the sky;
Oft from her bowels massy rocks are thrown,

And shiver'd from their force come piecemeal down.
Oft liquid fires of burning sulphur glow,
Nurs'd by the firey spring that burns below."

Dryden.

"My imagination, I admit, was actively alive to the possible accidents which might have occurred; I followed, however, with all the confidence which my conviction of being under the care of a cautious leader, did not fail to inspire. My guide appeared highly gratified with the incident, asserting that it was the first time one deprived of sight had ever ventured there; and adding, that he was sure it would much surprise the king, when the circumstance became known to him, in the report which is daily made of the persons who visit the mountain. The ground was too hot under our feet, and the sulphurous vapour too strong, to allow of our remaining long in this situation; and when he thought he had given us a sufficient idea of the nature of this part of the mountain, we retired to a more solid and a cooler footing; previous to which, however, he directed my walking-cane towards the flames, which shrivelled the ferrule, and charred the lower part; this I still retain as a memorial.

"From hence we were conducted to

the edge of a small crater, now extinguished, from whence about two months before, the Frenchman, rivalling the immortality of Empedocles

"Deus immortalis haberi,

began to retrace our steps towards the hermitage, distant, as our guide informed us, four miles, but which must have been an over-rated estimate. As we approached this latter place, we met a

Hor.

and desirous of dying a death worthy the great nation, plunged into the fiery abyss. The guide placed my hand on the very spot where he was stated to have last stood, before he thus rashly entered upon eternity.

"I was anxious to have proceeded up the cone to the border of the superior and large crater, but our guide objected, indeed refused to conduct us to it, unless we awaited the dawn of morning; the moon, he said, was fast descending, so that we should be involved in darkness before we could attain it; and that consequently it would be at⚫tended with risk in the extreme to make the attempt.

"This was a check to the completion of my anxious wishes, but our arrangements at Naples neither made it convenient to my friend, or myself, to remain until morning; nor would it have been pleasant to have spent some hours here without refreshment, more particularly as I had left my coat behind near the hermitage, and at this elevation we found it extremely cold.

"After spending a short time in examining some of the immense masses of calcined rock, many of them forming solid cubes of twenty feet diameter, and which had been at different times thrown out by the volcanic power; we

intention of waiting the break of day, so as to enable them to reach the very summit."

In his rambles about Naples, Mr. H. associated himself a good deal with a deaf companion, with whom he travelled 1490 miles to Amsterdam, and of whom he says, very cheerfully,

"My friend had the misfortune of being deaf, as well as suffering otherwise from ill health; it may be regarded as a curious incident in our travelling connexion,-that I should want sight, and he hearing; the circumstance is somewhat droll, and afforded considerable amusement to those whom we travelled with, so that we were not unfrequently exposed to a jest on the subject, which we generally participated in, and sometimes contributed to improve."

With this gentleman he returned by Rome, Florence, Milan, Geneva, Lausanne, Strasburg, Amsterdam, where they parted with mutual regret. Thence by Brussels and Ostend, our enterprising traveller sought his native soil; taught, like all who leave it, whether blind or sharp-sighted, to value it more than he had ever done before. There are many parts of the latter tour which court extract, but we hope we have done enough to recommend this extraordinary production to the public.

DUBLIN is a miniature of London: it is built like a metropolis, and has its squares and great streets. It is not like any of the great provincial towns which are places of trade, and only inhabited by persons more or less directly counected with trade; nor is it like Bath, a great theatre of amuse

ment.

It exhibits the same variety of ranks as London. It has its little court, its viceroy, with all the attend

ants upon his reflected royalty; it has its little aristocracy and its leaders of bon ton; it has its corporation; it has its Lord Mayor, and all the pageantry of city grandeur; it has its manufacturing, its mercantile, and its monied interests: it is the Westminster of Ireland, and is accordingly the locus in quo of judges, barristers, attorneys, &c. Almost every thing we find in London may be found also in Dublin.

The difference is but in degree, and the similitude may be traced in the minutest details. Dublin has its clubrooms, just as we have our's in St. James's-street; there are also balls on the same aristocratic plan as ours at Almack's; and the gardens attached to the Rotunda are, during the season, lighted up in humble and distant imitation of Vauxhall. Dublin too resembles the English capital in its ebbs and flows. At the commencement of the long vacation the gentlemen of the long robe take wing, and the whole moveable population disembogues itself into the cottages, villas, and mansions which line the Bay. Before the Union the resemblance was, no doubt, more complete; and the state of society then existing must have been exceedingly worthy of observation, and the varieties it presented highly entertaining. The recollections of this period cherished by the elder inhabitants of Dublin are very lively, and their representations of the great excitement and festivity which prevailed are probably correct. While the rich nobles and gentry were attending in their places in the parliament, all was gaiety and animation. The wealth which was necessarily diffused, increased the shrewd ness and enlivened the humour of the most quick witted people of Europe. The very chairmen, porters, and shoeblacks (a fraternity now, alas! nearly extinct) partook the general hilarity, and cracked such jokes and said such excellent things as they are now seldom heard to utter. The mob, previous to the extinction of the Irish parliament, took a warm interest in the subjects of its debates, which were of a popular nature; and several choice spirits arose, whose fears and prowess are recorded in many a ballad and ditty. Parties ran high, and one quarter of the city was sometimes arrayed against the other. The coal-porters were at one time at variance with the weavers of the Liberty; the burden of their war-cry ran thus

"We'll not leave a weaver alive in the Combe, We'll cut their weft, and we'll break their loom." But the feuds of the coal-porters and weavers are now nearly forgotten. Had they not had a bard, we should not now have mentioned them. At this period a slang arose, and very generally prevailed amongst the lower orders, which was of a most curious character, and which gave additional zest to their farcical sayings and jests. The dialogue between two shoeblacks playing pitch and toss, which appeared in Edgeworth's Irish Bulls, is exquisite in its kind. What dandy of the highest water could make a proposition to a brother fop in a finer spirit of enjouement than that conveyed in the phrase

66

"Tim, will you sky a copper?" and the glorious conclusion spoken in a tone of such profligate valour, and "So I gives it him, plaise your honour, into the bread basket with my bread-winner (knife) up to the Lampsey (maker's name) !" Even better that this we deem "The night before Larry was stretched," one of the best slang songs ever made. In the records of Irish crime such offenders as Larry are often found. Our Old Bailey culprits are dark, gloomy knaves; but the Irish rogues are all Macheaths and Don Juans in their way, gay, bold, dashing. villains." An Irishman was asked by an acquaintance one day why he looked so sad. "Ah!" was his reply, "I have just taken leave for ever of one of the pleasantest fellows, a friend of mine, whom the world ever saw." "How, for ever ?"-" Yes, for ever; he's to be hanged to-day for a burglary!" It was a fact that this gentleman, now enjoying name and station, used to frequent the Dublin Newgate, and found his boon companions among some of its inmates; and certainly those who have a stomach strong enough for a coarse low humour, could not make a better selection.

While Dublin was the seat of legislature, there was a great commixture of the Bar with the members of the House