ley between the towns was formerly filled with water, and was called the North Loch. It is now, however, a delightful place. The water is all drained off, and it is principally used as an aristocratic park, where the children and nurses of the nobility and gentry of Edinboro' repair to "air" themselves, for the ragged mob and barelegged loafers are kept out by bars and bolts and sturdy policemen, In Edinboro' a hard-working mechanic with his freckled-faced son, can it is true, go to the top of Arthur's Seat, and feast his eyes on the beauties of this great city. He can then descend and go to the base of Sir Walter's monument, and look with pleasure and with pride on Scotland's greatest man; but let him attempt to enter this irongrated aristocratic park, and he would be kicked out with as little ceremony as a negro would be from a public ball-room in Baton Rouge. This is not in population a great city, as compared with London, or Paris, or Vienna; but in literature, in the arts, in medicine, in law, philosophy, and the natural sciences, in poetry and in song, and above all in literary periodicals, Edinboro' stands pre-eminently ahead of all the civilized world. In the long list of immortal names that have been written on the scroll of fame, Scotia claims her full portion, and more, perhaps, than any other nation. Wallace and Bruce, Scott and Burns, and Allan Ramsay, Dugald Stewart, Reid and Playfair, Knox, Brown, and Chalmers, Hume, Mackintosh, and Robertson, are names that will live "till the last

syllable of recorded time." It is indeed a matter of great astonishment that Scotland, a small, hilly, poor, rugged country, should have given so many great men to the world. Edinboro' has a population of 160,000 inhabitants; about the size of Cincinnati. It is very pleasantly situated near the Frith of Forth, and is now accessible by railroads from all quarters. To a stranger, this city presents many strange sights-the buildings frequently towering up to the height of eight or ten stories, while the railway passes over the tops of houses, and you seem really to be travelling on an air line. The principal streets in the old town, and the ones known to history and to fame, are Canongate and High street. This street (for they both are the same) is a mile long, and rises gradually from Holyrood Palace, with a regular and steep inclination, until it terminates in the huge rock on which is built the castle, 443 feet above the level of the sea. It was on this street that the celebrated John Knox lived. His house is still standing, and the window is pointed out, from which he thundered forth his terrible anathemas against the follies and the wickedness of the times. He was no temporizing, milk-and-cider, cream-cheese preacher. He spared neither king nor queen, priest nor people, but boldly lashed vice wherever found, in pampered wealth or squalid poverty. He cried aloud and spared not. Elegance of rhetoric and delicacy of language were not common in his time, and would have been lost in the tumult. He spoke

and wrote his honest thoughts in terse and even homely language. He appeared in the pulpit not in the graceful folds of the toga, or the simple and unpretending dress of a reforming clergyman, but he came as a warrior, clad in mail, armed at all points, for defence and aggression. He was inflexible in maintaining what he felt to be right, and intrepid in defending it. On his death he was buried in the churchyard of St. Giles, and his eulogist pronounced these memorable words-" Here lies he who never feared the face of man." The most remarkable place in Edinboro' is of course the castle. It is situated on the top of a high rock, and is a cluster of irregular buildings, begirt with embrazured walls, except on the south side, where the castle rises perpendicularly with the rock, which it emulates in sternness of aspect and lofty grandeur. From a window on this portion of the castle you have the best prospect in Scotland. Just under you is the celebrated "Grass Market," and many of the most busy thoroughfares of the city, while opposite rise in all their majesty Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat.

The fortress contains generally a small number of soldiers. It has accommodations for 2,000, and the armory for 30,000 stand of arms. I saw here a huge cannon made of malleable iron; its bore is two feet six inches in diameter, and ought to carry a ball about the size of a flour-barrel! This monster gun was made in Mons, in Belgium, A. D. 1486. The castle contains a great many articles of

curiosity and a number of historic apartments. Here James VI. was born.

Here Queen Mary regalia of Scotland,

was confined. Here are the the sceptre, crown, and sword. Here also are the instruments of torture, used in the days of Charles and of James; the thumb-screw and the iron boot, the wheel and the rack, melancholy mementos of the dreadful persecutions of the Covenanters. The Palace of Holyrood, or Holyrood House, is situated at the lower or eastern extremity of Canongate street. It is a huge, square building, with an open central court about 100 feet square. In the north-west angle of the palace are the apartments of Mary Queen of Scots, nearly in the same state as when left by that unfortunate princess. The furniture looks old and rickety, and the beds and bedding, and fancy curtains, and regal trappings, are all faded and worm-eaten. It is here in this very room that the spots of blood on the floor are shown the visitor, it being the place where the hapless Rizzio was murdered in the very presence of his mistress. Adjoining the palace, on the north side, is the chapel in which Queen Mary was married to Lord Darnley. Here are deposited the remains of many of the kings and noble personages of Scotland. This old palace is fitted up at present, or rather a suite of rooms has been fitted up, for the express benefit of his Highness the Prince of Wales, who now resides here, and is studying chemistry at the University. He is an ordinarylooking youth. of modest demeanor and agreeable

manners. Edinboro' is all agog because he has come here to attend the University. He puts on no airs, but goes about the city in a plain and unpretending manner. There are 23 churches here, of what is called the "Established Church." Among them the finest are St. George's, St. Stephen's, St. Mary's, and St. Andrew's. Of the Free churches there are 25. There are 15 United Presbyterian and 8 Episcopalian churches. St. John's in Prince's street and St. George's in York place are elegant structures. There are also in the city 6 Baptist, 3 Methodist, 3 Congregational, 2 Seceders, 1 Reformed Presbyterian, and 2 Roman Catholic churches. The Greyfriars churchyard attached to the old Greyfriars church, is one of the most interesting spots in Scotland. Here lie buried Sir George Mackenzie, Allan Ramsay the poet, and Robertson the historian. In this churchyard also are buried many who suffered martyrdom in the times of the persecution, and here it was on the top of the tombstones, over the sacred graves of their fathers, that the national covenant was signed in 1638. In the way of monuments Edinboro' has some splendid specimens. The most elegant is that erected to Sir Walter Scott, on Prince's street. It is a Gothic cross, 200 feet high. A statue, in sitting posture, of the great poet and novelist, occupies the platform of the monument, and over it the groined arches form a canopy. This structure is in most excellent taste, and is one of the most beautiful specimens of " monumental art" I have

ever seen.