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an order from some officer who lived in the town. Notwithstanding this disappointment, we were much gratified by the excursion. We saw Stromboli, with a cloud resting on its summit, some other of the Lepari Isles, and a distant part of the Italian coast. On the other hand were the mountains of Calabria, extending down to the sea, and presenting many forms of beauty and grandeur. They are so steep that the road to Naples, which has been cut out of their sides, is supported in some places by masonry; yet they are cultivated. On one I counted forty terraces, and there were more above.

Yesterday, in company with our excellent friends, Mr. and Miss -, we rode about four miles into the country, and ascended to the telegraph, on a mountain back of the town. Our mode of travelling was quite new and amusing to us. We rode upon donkeys, about as large as Shetland ponies. When I was mounted, my feet almost touched the ground, and they frequently hit the sides of the path, where it was sunk a little below the general level. The character which the ass has always borne, I found to be just, for my beast would do, not as I wished, but as he chose. When we were descending, I was especially annoyed. I was willing either to walk or to ride, as it might please my four-legged companion (it were a misnomer to call him servant), but when I tried to mount, he moved off; and when I undertook to lead him, he stood still. The last, by an Irish license, might have been called his favourite gait, when I was upon his back. Once or twice he stopped suddenly at the edge of a mud-puddle, as if with a design to pitch me in; and once I narrowly escaped being thus dashed on the pavement. At another time, on the approach of a carriage he would not turn out Ch. Adv. VOL. XI.

either to the right or the left, and it was the care of the coachman that saved us from being ridden over. I escaped all serious harm from the perversity of my beast, but fell into a ludicrous disaster from his weakness; for as I happened incautiously to lean forward a little, the weight of my body came too much over his forelegs, which suddenly gave way, and I made a complete somerset over his head to the ground. With all his defects, however, the ass is a most useful creature. They abound here and in France, and are used in the transportation of all kinds of commodities.

The day was like one of the finest that our climate affords in May, and the scenery was alternately picturesque and magnificent. The view from the top of the hill was very fine. The first objects which struck our sight were the Lepari Isles, especially Stromboli; which, though fifty miles distant, appeared like a vast pyramid rising out of the sea. We could discern the smoke of its unceasing fire. To the left were Milazzo and its cape, extending into the Mediterranean, and farther on the same side, the innumerable mountains which compose the surface of Sicily. At our feet were a vast number of hills, every where divided by fiumari, which make the face of this country so dissimilar to that of the United States. Turning round, we saw the deep ravine through which we had ascended, with the mountains that enclosed it, then the city of Messina, with its circular harbour, almost surrounded by the sickle-shaped strip of land that forms it; beyond, the bright blue Strait that divides Sicily from the Continent, bounded on one side by a flat shore that winds in the most beautiful curve, and on the other by a succession of lofty promontories, on the sides of which cultivation is spread, and towns and vil

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lages are built, as if in defiance of natural obstacles; and still farther back, the mountains of Italy, partly covered with snow and capped with clouds.

After much inquiry and hesitation, we have concluded to sail for Palermo, and have engaged our passage in an English brig. Before we embarked for Messina, we understood that there was no difficulty in proceeding at any time from this place to Naples, but the fact is otherwise. In Calabria, the roads and accommodations are bad, and there is danger from banditti; so that the journey by land is out of the question. The one hundred and eighty miles of water between the two places, would be no formidable obstacle on our coast, but here the wind at this season blows almost constantly from the west and northwest, or at least it has done so since our arrival; and the Sicilians and Italians are miserable navigators, afraid of a high wind, and unable to use any which is not quite fair. A gentleman who recently went to Naples from this place, was employed exactly a month in making the voyage. Once or twice he was within sight of the bay of Naples, and afterwards compelled to return.

Palermo, Feb. 12th.

MY DEAR COUSIN, - Your kind postscript has given me great pleasure. Could I communicate any adequate idea of what we have seen and felt since it was received, you would have an ample recompense. Of that I despair, but a simple account of our adventures since we left Messina, may not be uninteresting.

We sailed a little before noon on the 6th, and arrived in the harbour of this place at sunset on the 8th. The motion of our brig was so gentle that we escaped seasickness till the last morning, when we had full proof that all

our passed tossing had not yet seasoned us. The voyage, though pleasant on the whole, was attended with some few hardships and privations. Our fare was mean and miserable, and the vessel, which had been built under the Captain's own directions, the worst contrived that ever was seen. When H- and myself got into our berths at night, we found them so short that we were compelled to assume the attitudes of roasted turkeys. We bore the inconvenience for one night, but afterwards took to the cabin-floor for a resting place.

During the voyage we had fine views of the Lipari Isles, the ancient Insulae Eolinæ. They are mountains rising above the sea, and supposed to be of volcanic origin, several of them still emitting smoke. Lepari, the most considerable, is about twenty miles in circuit, and contains 18,000 inhabitants. These islands are the Botany Bay of Naples and Sicily, being the receptacle of their convicts.

It was too late, when we arrived, to obtain pratique, or permission to land. It was the carnival, and the officers were gone to the masquerade. A testy American, accustomed to move about at will, would have been provoked at being thus imprisoned in a small uncomfortable vessel within sight of the city to which he was bound, by the absence of the officers who were to attend to the mere ceremony by which he might obtain entrance. At a late hour in the morning, we were rowed across the harbour to the health office. Our bill of health was taken with a pair of tongs, and after it had been amply fumigated and examined, we were passed, one by one, in review before the windows of the office, in order that ocular demonstration might "make assurance doubly sure." Our ordeal now seemed nearly over, when an

unexpected difficulty arose to prolong it. Our sapient Captain had left his mate in the brig, and it was necessary that he should be seen, before we could be allowed to enter the town. We had to put on patience, and walk over the few feet of pavement to which we were confined, while the boat went back a mile or two and returned.

It was contrary to rule for our baggage to be brought when we came, so that the bay had to be recrossed again, and crossed third time, before we could be comfortably established in our inn.

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liant hues of Spring, and adorned with the ever-during foliage of the olive, the white blossoms of the almond, and the rich fruits of the orange; while in the centre of all this grand and beautiful scenery, are collected the habitations of a hundred and sixty thousand human beings.

15th. This afternoon we witnessed a very singular exhibition of folly. This is the Carnival, and the people of Palermo choose to prepare for the austerities of Lent, by indulgence in gaieties, as useless as what they precede. Ourexcellent friends, Mr. and Mrs. G., took us to the house of one of their acquaintances on the Vea Toledo, or Corso, as it is commonly called, from the balcony of which we had a good view of the procession. This was composed of carriages going up the street on one side, and down the other, at a slow pace. Most of these were of the ordinary kind, but some were in fanciful shapes. One was a wind-mill drawn by six horses in gilded harness, and followed by two more. Several were boats, one of which was occupied by young Englishmen resident here. In some of the carriages were young ladies, in others persons wearing masks; but most of them were filled with gentlemen. A part of these bore shields, others had their faces covered with net-work, and others used the cushions of the carriages, common servers, cloaks and various other things, for protection from the missiles with which they were assailed. The carriages were loaded with sugar plums, which the occupants

The city is delightfully situated at the foot of a grand bay opening into the Mediterranean, and is almost surrounded by mountains. Some of these, as Monte Pelegrino, and Capo di Gallo, are entirely insulated, so that the plain extends to the sea on each side of them. Others are apparently in ranges, but of such different elevations in different parts, that one is seen behind another, and even Etna, at the distance of eighty miles, is visible from the Marina. This is a broad street on the margin of the sea, more than half a mile in length, adorned with statues, and having a finely paved walk on the side next the bay. I have never seen so beautiful a promenade. The battery at New York is not to be compared with it. On one side are the city and surrounding mountains; on the other, the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean; whose waves dash against the wall that supports the Marina, after tumbling in masses of foam over the rocks in advance, which seem to be placed as an ineffectual bar-threw, not only with their hands,

rier against them, and only to increase their fury. The views from this charming walk are admirable, but must yield to those which the top of the palace affords. There, are seen the more remote hills; the bay with its winding shores and grand promontories; an extensive plain covered even at this season with the verdure and bril

but even with ladles made for the purpose, upon their acquaintances in the balconies, upon the people in other carriages, and even upon the mob in the street. Those who were thus attacked made hearty returns, and a brisk warfare was carried on. When the English boat came near us, the crew discovering Mr. and Mrs. G., sent

such a shower of sweets upon us, that we were overwhelmed. One shot struck Mrs. G. near the eye, giving her a wound which smarted for hours, but she escaped better than a Sicilian lady, whose eye was seriously injured, on some former occasion of this kind. The street was crowded to excess, and the balconies of the houses filled with people assembled to see the whimsical spectacle. Before it began, some of the common people were marching through the streets in masks, dancing and beating the packs upon each other's shoulders with clubs. The whole scene was exceedingly ridiculous, but the masquerades and sugar-plumfighters of Palermo, must yield the precedence in folly to the thousands of our countrymen, who on great anniversaries transform themselves into brutes.

19th. The neighbourhood of Palermo abounds with interesting objects, and our excursions have afforded much pleasure. On the north, is the lofty peak called Monte Pelegrino, the ancient Mons Eveta, where the Carthaginians found impregnable positions during the Punic wars. It is now especially remarkable for having been the abode of Saint Rosalio, the patroness of Palermo. This young princess, according to tradition, left the court to devote herself to a contemplative life, and dwelt in a grotto which we entered. Here her remains were discovered, most fortunately for Palermo, for being carried in procession to the cathedral, they delivered the city from the plague, and ever since, on the 15th of July, the procession is repeated, and a great festival celebrated! We saw the statue of the saint in the grotto, and what was more interesting, on the top of the mountains enjoyed most charming views, extending to the island of Ustica on the north, and to Etna on the east.

At the foot of Monte Pelegrino, is a country-seat of the King, call

ed La Favorita. The grounds are well laid out and abound with game. The house is Chinese in form and decoration, and has many old, and some splendid ornaments. The palace of the hereditary prince is in a delightful situation, but is not magnificent, considered as a royal residence. At Bagharia, are several country-seats of distinguished families. One of them, that of Prince Palayonia, is remarkable for a great number of statues of grotesque monsters. A former proprietor chose thus to embody the works of a foolish fancy.

The pleasantest excursion that we have made from the city, was to Piana di Græci. This is a village about 14 miles from Palermo, inhabited by the descendants of some Albanians, who fled from the Turks three or four hundred years since. There are three other villages of the same people, whose number we were told amounted to twenty thousand. They speak the Albanian language, and preserve their religion, though they call the Pope their head. They baptize by immersion, and their priests marry. The service of the church is performed in Greek. They have a bishop in Palermo, and another in Messina, and a seminary in each of these cities. La Piana is situated among the mountains south-west of Palermo, on very elevated ground. The road to it, with the exception of the first three or four miles, is almost a continued ascent. It winds over the hills in the most picturesque manner. The views of the mountainous country through which it passes, and near Palermo, of that city, its charming plain, and the lofty heights around it, are some of the finest that I have seen.

I will not weary you with a particular description of the buildings here. We have visited a number of churches, on the decoration of which immense labour and expense have been lavished. In several, the walls and ceiling are almost entirely covered with Mosaic; and marble, porphyry, gilding, statues and pictures, have been heaped together, in a profusion which excites astonishment. Yet they seldom produce elegance. There is too much that is grotesque or gaudy. The effect of the Mosaic especially, is wholly disproportioned to the labour which produced it.

In the suburbs, at the Capuchin convent, there are catacombs cut out of the rock, where the air has the singular property of preserving the corpses, which, during a long course of time, have been placed in them. The bodies are first dried over a fire, and then clothed and deposited in ornamented chests, or set up in niches. On the 2d of November, in each year, the relatives of those who once inhabited these clay tenements, thus unnaturally kept from corruption, visit them and clothe them anew. We were told that three thousand bodies are pre

served here.

The Sicilians are said not to want natural talent or courage, but they are buried in ignorance, enslaved by superstition, and enervated by their climate. Hence, the animal part of nature has an odious preponderance with them. To indulge the appetites and to sleep, constitute quite too large a part of their existence. I cannot put upon paper, the accounts I have received of the grossness which deforms even the higher people among them. In dealing, it is necessary to guard against every body, and cheapen, or give twice as much as it is worth for every thing.

The principal, or Corso-street, is more crowded than any that I have seen. Pickpockets abound, and the beggars are more numerous and importunate than you can well imagine. They are so deformed and filthy, that I do not

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We hesitated as to the propriety of inserting the following article in the Christian Advocate, till friends whose opinions we thought deserved regard, advised its republication in our pages. More than twenty years have elapsed since it appeared in a pamphlet form, and copies of it are now rarely to be found. A large part of the article is made up of suggestions and reasonings applicable to vacant congregations in general, as well as to that to which they were originally addressed. The pamphlet excited a good deal of publick attention at the time of its first appearancethe autumn of 1812, when the editor resigned his pastoral charge, on accepting his appointment to the presidency of the college of New Jersey. Advice and Exhortation, addressed to the People of the Second Presbyterian Congregation, in Philadelphia, on resigning the Pastoral Charge of that Congregation. By Ashbel Green, D. D.

MY DEAR PEOPLE,-On the dissolution of the pastoral relation which I have sustained to you for more than five-and-twenty years, I am now to offer you my parting advice and exhortation. These I choose to deliver to you from the press, rather than from the pulpit, for several reasons, but especially for this, that you may possess them permanently, and be able to consult them deliberately, and to review them often-That they may, perhaps, admonish and profit you, when the lips which have so often addressed you, shall be silent forever, and the hand which here records my last counsel shall have mouldered into dust. It does not seem unreasonable to hope, that

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