himself for his trouble in taking care that her family vault should be kept in good repair; a guinea to be expended in a dinner for himself, and the clerk, and parish officers; 127. 10s. to defray the expenses of such repairs; if in any year the vault should not require repair, the money to be laid out in eighteen pennyworth of good beef, eighteen pennyworth of good bread, five shillings worth of coals, and 4s. 6d. in money, to be given to each of twenty of the poorest inhabitants of the parish; if repairs should be required, the money left to be laid out in like manner and quantity, with 4s. 6d. to as many as it will extend to; and the remaining 8s. to be given to the clerk. In consequence of Mary Wragg's bequest, her vault in the church-yard is properly maintained, and distribution made of beef, bread, and money, every 28th of January. On this occasion there is usually a large attendance of spectators; as many as please go down into the vault, and the parochial authorities of Beckenham have a holiday, and "keep wassel." There is carefully kept in this church a small wooden hand-box, of remarkable shape, made in king William's time, for the receipt of contributions from the congregation when there are collections. As an ecclesiastical utensil with which I was unacquainted, W. took a drawing, and has made an engraving of it. This collecting-box is still used. It is carried into the pews, and handed to the occupants, who drop any thing or nothing, as they please, into the upper part. When money is received, it passes through an open slit left between the back and the top enclosure of the lower half; which part, thus shut up, forms a box, that conceals from both eye and hand the money deposited. The contrivance might be advantageously adopted in making collections at the doors of churches generally. It is a complete security against the possibility of money being withdrawn instead of given; which, from the practice of holding open plates, and the ingenuity of sharpers, has sometimes happened. In the middle of two family pews of this church, which are as commodious as sitting parlours, there are two ancient reading desks like large music stands, with flaps and locks for holding and securing the service books when they are not in use. These pieces of furniture are either obsolete in churches, or peculiar to that of Beckenham; at least I never saw desks of the like in any other church. Not discovering any thing further to remark within the edifice, except its peal of five bells, we strolled among the tombs in the church-yard, which offers no inscriptions worth notice. From its solemn yewtree grove we passed through the "Lichgate," already described. On our return to the road by which we had approached the church, and at a convenient spot, W. sketched the view he so freely represents in the engraving. The melodists of the groves were in full song. As the note of the parish-clerk rises in the psalm above the common voice of the congregation, so the loud, confident note of the blackbird exceeds the united sound of the woodland choir : one of these birds, on a near tree, whistled with all his might, as if conscious of our listening, and desirous of particular distinction. Wishing to reach home by a different route than that we had come, we desired to be acquainted with the way we should go, and went again to the almshouses which are occupied by three poor widows, of whom our attendant to the church was one. She was alone in her humble babitation making tea, with the tokens of her officebearing, the church keys, on the table before her. In addition to the required information, we elicited that she was the widow of Benjamin Wood, the late parishclerk. His brother, a respectable tradesman in London, had raised an excellent business, "Wood's eating-house," at the corner of Seething-lane, Tower-street, and at his decease was enabled to provide comfortably for his family. Wood, the parishclerk, had served Beckenham in that capa city many years till his death, which left his widow indigent, and threw her on the cold charity of a careless world. She seems to have outlived the recollection of her husband's relatives. After his death she struggled her way into this almshouse, and gained an allowance of two shillings a week; and on this, with the trifle allowed for her services in keeping clean the church, at past threescore years and ten, she somehow or other contrives to exist. We led dame Wood to talk of her "domestic management," and finding she brewed her own beer with the common utensils and fire-place of her little room, we asked her to describe her method: a tin kettle is her boiler, she mashes in a common butter-firkin, runs off the liquor in a "crock," and tuns it in a small-beerbarrel. She is of opinion that "poor people might do a great deal for themselves if they knew how: but," says she, "where there's a will, there's a way." The old Font of Beckenham Church. A font often denotes the antiquity, and frequently determines the former import ance of the church, and is so essential a part of the edifice, that it is incomplete without one. According to the rubrick, a church may be without a pulpit, but not without a font; hence, almost the first thing I look for in an old church is its old stone font. Instead thereof, at Beckenham, is a thick wooden baluster, with an unseemly circular flat lid, covering a sort of wash-hand-basin, and this the "gentlemen of the parish" call a "font!" The odd- 6. (Roger de Coverly Not more good man than he),` Push'd for Cocytus, With cuckoldy Worral, His death might affright us! 7. Had he mended in right time, (That black hour, and fright-time,) Till sexton interr'd him, Have groan'd in his coffin, While demons stood scoffing You'd ha' thought him a coughingMy own father heard him! 8. Could gain so importune, With occasion opportune, That for a poor Fortune, That should have been ours,t In soul he should venture Amid the dark Powers ? 9. Kindly hearts I have known; Linger, yet uneffaced,→ 10. But this day, Fanny Hutton She died, as the dunce died; Things, as she once did: And prudent Miss Wither Nor I, well, nor you know; And flaunting Miss Waller — That soon must befal her, Which makes folks seem taller, ‡— Though proud, once, as Juno ! Scottish Legends. HIGHLAND SCENERY. The scenery and legend of Mr. James Hay Allan's poem, "The Bridal of Caölchairn," are derived from the vicinity of Cruachan, (or Cruachan-Beinn,) a mountain 3390 feet above the level of the sea, situated at the head of Loch Awe, a lake in Argyleshire. The poem commences with the following lines: the prose illustrations are from Mr. Allan's descriptive notes. Grey Spirit of the Lake, who sit'st at eve At mighty Cruächan's gigantic feet; And lov'st to watch thy gentle waters heavé The silvery ripple down their glassy sheet; How oft I've wandered by thy margin sweet, And stood beside the wide and silent bay, Where the broad Urcha's stream thy breast doth meet, And Caölchairn's forsaken Donjon grey Looks from its narrow rock upon thy watery way. Maid of the waters! in the days of yore What deeds have past upon thy mountain shore; INISHAIL. the convent on the lovely isle." Inishail, the name of one of the islands in Loch Awe, signifies in Gaëlic "the lovely isle." It is not at present so worthy of this appellation as the neighbouring “Fràoch Elan,” isle of heather, not having a tree or shrub upon its whole extent. At the period when it received its name, it might, however, have been better clothed; and still it has a fair and pleasant aspect: its extent is larger than that of any other island in the lake, and it is covered with a green turf, which, in spring, sends forth an abundant growth of brackens. There formerly existed here a convent of Cistercian nuns; of whom it is said, that they were "memorable for the sanctity of their lives and the purity of their manners: at the Reformation, when the innocent were involved with the guilty in the sufferings of the times, their house was supprest, and the temporalities granted to Hay, the abbot of Inchaffrey, who, abjuring his former tenets of religion, embraced the cause of the reformers."* Public worship was performed in the chapel of the convent till the year 1736: but a more commodious building having been erected on the south side of the lake, it has since been entirely forsaken; nothing now remains of its ruin but a small part of the shell, of which only a few feet are standing above the foundation. Of the remaining buildings of the order there exists no trace, except in some loose heaps of stones, and an almost obliterated mound, which marks the foundation of the outer wall. But the veneration that renders sacred to a Highlander the tombs of his ancestors, has yet preserved to the burying-ground its ancient sanctity. It is still used as a place of interment, and the dead are often brought from a distance to rest there among their kindred. In older times the isle was the principal burying-place of many of the most considerable neighbouring families: among the tombstones are many shaped in the ancient form, like the lid of a coffin, and ornamented with carvings of fret-work, running figures, flowers, and the forms of warriors and two-handed swords. They are universally destitute of the trace of an inscription. Among the chief families buried in Inishail were the Mac Nauchtans of Fràoch Elan, and the Campbells of Inbherau. Mr. Allan could not discover the spot appro⚫ priated to the former, nor any evidence of the gravestones which must have covered their tombs. The place of the Campbells, however, is yet pointed out. It lies on the south side of the chapel, and its site is marked by a large flat stone, ornamented with the arms of the family in high relief. The shield is supported by two warriors, and surmounted by a diadem, the signification and exact form of which it is difficult to decide; but the style of the carving and the costume of the figures do not appear to be later than the middle of the fifteenth century. On the top of the distant hill over which the road from Inverara descends to Cladich there formerly stood a stone cross, erected on the spot where Inishail first became visible to the traveller. These crosses were * Statistical Account, vol. viii. p. 347. general at such stations in monastic times, and upon arriving at their foot the pilgrims knelt and performed their reverence to the saint, whose order they were approaching. From this ceremony, the spot on the hill above-mentioned was and is yet called "the cross of bending." FRAOCH ELAN. "The refuge tower grey Looked down the mighty gulf's profound defile." The little castellated isle of "Fràoch Elan" lies at a short distance from Inishail, and was the refuge hold of the Mac Nauchtans. It was given to the chief, Gilbert Mac Nauchtan, by Alexander III. in the year 1276, and was held by the tenure of entertaining the king whenever he should pass Loch Awe. The original charter of the grant was lately in possession of Mr. Campbell of Auchlian, and a copy is to be found in "Sir James Balfour's Collection of Scottish Charters." The islet of" Fràoch Elan" is in summer the most beautiful in Scotland. On one side the rock rises almost perpendicular from the water. The lower part and the shore is embowered in tangled shrubs and old writhing trees. Above, the broken wall and only remaining gable of the castle looks out over the boughs; and on the north side a large ashtree grows from the foundation of what was once the hall, and overshadows the ruin with its branches. Some of the windowniches are yet entire in the keep, and one of these peeping through the tops of the trees, shows a view of fairie beauty over the waters of the lake, and the woody banks of the opposite coast. In the summer, Fràoch Elan, like most of the islands in Loch Awe, is the haunt of a variety of gulls and wild fowl. They come from the sea-coast, a distance of twenty-four miles, to build and hatch their young. At this season, sheldrakes, grey gulls, kitaweaks, white ducks, teal, widgeon, and divers, abound in the Loch. Fràoch Elan is chiefly visited by the gulls, which hold the isle in joint tenure with a water-eagle who builds annually upon the top of the remaining chimney. It is not very long since this beautiful isle has been delivered over to these inhabitants; for a great aunt of a neighbouring gentleman was born in the castle, and in "the forty-five," preparations were privately made there for entertaining the prince had he passed by Loch Awe. From the name of Fràoch Elan some have erroneously, and without any authority of tradition, assigned it as the dragon's isle, in the ancient Gaelic legend of "Fràoch and the daughter of Mey." There is, in truth, no farther relation between one and the other, than in a resemblance of name between the island and the warrior. The island of the tale was called "Elan na Bheast," the Monster's Isle, and the lake in which it lay was named Loch Luina. This is still remembered to have been the ancient appellation of Loch Avich, a small lake about two miles north of Loch Awe. There is here a small islet yet called "Elan na Bheast," and the tradition of the neighbourhood universally affirms, that it was the island of the legend. RIVAL CHIEFS. "Where fought Mac Colda, and Mac Phadian died." "Alaister Mac Coll Cedach." Alexander, the son of left-handed Coll, was a Mac Donald, who made a considerable figure in the great civil war: he brought two thousand men to the assistance of Montrose, and received from him a commission of lieutenancy in the royal service. He is mentioned by contemporary writers, under the corrupted name of Kolkitto; but time has now drawn such a veil over his history, that it is difficult to ascertain with any degree of certainty from what family of the Mac Donalds he came. By some it is asserted, that he was an islesman; but by the most minute and seemingly authentic tradition, he is positively declared to have been an Irishman, and the son of the earl of Antrim. Of his father there is nothing preserved but his name, his fate, and his animosity to the Campbells, with whom, during his life, he maintained with deadly assiduity the feud of his clan. It was his piper who was hanged at Dunavàig in Ceantir, and in his last hour saved the life of his chieftain by composing and playing the inexpressibly pathetic pibroch," Colda mo Roon." But though he escaped at this juncture, Colda was afterwards taken by the Campbells, and hung in chains at Dunstaffnage. His death was the chief ground of that insatiate vengeance with which his son ever after pursued the followers of Argyle. Long after the death of his father, Alaister chanced to pass by Dunstaffnage in return from a descent which he had made in the Campbell's country. As he sailed near the Statistical Account of Scotland, vol. viii. p. 346; and Pennant's Tour in Scotland, 1774, p. 217. |