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Who shall say how big? And on the low, he will be glad enough to get the top there was an iron bird that Happed stiffness out of his knees by bathing in its wings and cried kikuno, kikaw. A the black hole scooped out by the fallman told me this. And inside there ing water under a shady wall of rock, were wheels and machinery and fire- not at all regarding liis bearers, who, powder. So they gave it to the em- anxious for their midday rice, will peror. The emperor — who shall say waru him that he will assuredly be how pleased he was ? — took it, and drowned, for that it is far too deep to put it safe in his palace. Put it in his swim in ! palace ; then not many days and it The Temple of Tranquillity stands burst to pieces, Pow! and men were with its back to a wood at the end of a killed past counting, and in rushed spit of rice-land julling out from the the foreign soldiers, and plundered and broader valley. Looking down on it killed and burned !"
from the wood, the same jumble is “But how did the foreign soldiers seen as at the Buddhist monastery of get there ?" I asked.
curved tiled roofs ornamented with “ The foreign soldiers had gone up suns and dragons, but on a larger river one by one, feigning to do traffic scale. In front is the same cement in merchandise. That is how they got courtyard - golden, when I arrived, there, ko lo waw."
with the fruits of the first barvest, laid The Monastery of the Opening Cloud out to dry in the sun before being is built in a sort of crater, with the garnered into the temple gravaries. peak that names the mountain towering Inside, too, the arrangements are a four hundred feet above, which peak is servile imitation. There is a Tao-ist supposed to have floated into position Trinity to match the Triune Buddha ; during a deluge, and to be shaped like there are the same paintings, incense, a basket. In my opinion it is more like towers, and altars. One cannot help a camel, or a weasel, or a whale. If feeling that since the Chinese are you take the trouble to climb up, and successful in chaffering and money, if the mist holds off, you will get a grubbing, it is a pity for them to enter view of a south-China rice-plain, as the domain of religion, where they are seen from four thousand feet of grey not equally qualified to shine. If grass slope and black granite, that is Buddhism is an exotic that may have worth remembering. The East River, suffered in transplanting, at any rate coming down in a crimson flood under the doctrine of Tao, or the Way, is a the sunset, slips into a thousand veins, native growth. Lo Tsz, or the Ancient and winds through the rice-fields (palest One, its founder, was a white-haired green as I saw them, with the promise recluse at the time that Confucius be. of the second crop), and round the came kuown twenty-four centuries ago. oases of higher land, where the white He left a book behind him whiclı, with cottages are built above flool-level, much that is obscure, contains also each imbedded in a patch of bamboo or many of the truths accepted as divine fruit-trees that show almost black by by less mundane races than the Chicontrast. And far away to the west nese. His creed was that all things the sun sets behind the golden line that spring from the Way, and must return marks the Canton estuary.
to i:. To follow the Way in simplicity The next place to go to is Su Lau is the only happiness ; and this is to Kwon, the Tao-ist Temple of Tranquil- be attained throuylı Tak, or Virtue. lity. The way down is extremely steep • Who is good, I would meet with and slippery and wearisome. If one goodness; and who is not good I would could only take a seat in the streamlet, meet with goodness ; for Tak is goodand switch-back down in fifty-foot leaps ness," said the Ancient One, whose of shining spray! By the time the victum, by the way, contrasts curiously tourist has joggled down the three with the saving of Confucius, less exthousand odd feet into the valley be-'alted if more practical : “ With what,
theil, wouli ye recompense goodness ? she sits quietly in a shrine nicely filled Recompense goodness with gooduess, up as a boudoir, with pictures and lotusand evil with justice.”
lilies. When heaven leaked a long time But ethics do not suit China. By ago, she melted five sorts of stone tothe workings of the national genius, gether and patched it up. So the story this simple old philosopher in his goes; but I never believed it till I saw mountain cell was degraded into a a piece of the unused material which is Drury Lane miracle-mongering idol, kept on show to confound the increduand his cleanly life bespattered, not lous ; even so, a casual observer might with sweet-smelling legends like those mistake it for a piece of lava. that hide the beginnings of other lead- European visitors are not unknown ers of men, but with such stories as on the Lo Fau San, but naturally the that he sprang into life from his moth- main income of the Tranquil Temple is er's armpit an old man with flapping, derived from native pilgrims and siglitthree-holed ears and twenty toes ! Ilis seers. The high officials at Canton followers then proceeded to annex pay occasional visits, as do many of the every popular deity that could gain gentry and literati, despite the sceptithem a supporter; and when, in the cism they profess, – to set an example, first century A.D., Buddhism became a as they explain it, to the “ Hundred formidable rival, these two religions Surnames,” Anglicè, the masses. It entered into a long struggle for popu- may be so ; but a European can keep a larity, each borrowing from the other good many Chinamen at bay as long as any feature that seemed to be an ad- they are not quite sure that he is powvantage. Hence the absurd resem- erless against them; and it may be that blance between them is the result of the free-thinkers have a similar feeling the adaptation of two different species towards the gods they laugh at in their to an uncongenial enviroument; and it homes. They take no chances. A few is 10 be hoped that the process will dollars spent on incense at the worst continue until the degraded progeny of can do no harm. both are improved out of existence. At any rate, ample accommodation
I asked one of the Tao-ist priesthood for visitors is provided. On arriving I what he considered to be the salient was shown into the guest - room, a distinction between his religion and pretty little hall with a courtyard full of Buddhism – a question which stag-llowers at one end, and a deep windowgered him visibly. After nature con- recess strewed with opium-smokers' sideration he replied : “ The Exalted | lounge-mats at the other, and with the Brethren shave their heads bare ; but inevitable straight - backed chairs of we Searchers after the Way twist ours ebony inlaid with mother-of-pearl into a top-knot, - thus.” A broader ranged stifly along the side - walls. distinction seems to lie in the expres- After a few minutes a venerable old sion of the idols ; for while those of priest appeared, to whom I bowed Buildha are mostly bland, not to say politely, shaking my clasped hands on supercilious, the Tranquil Temple col- a level with my chin, and a “Yes ! lection was conspicuous for scowling, yes! I will sit down, sit down, sit black-bearded ferocity. The thunder down ! ” on my tongue's end ready to god struck me as particularly impres- meet his “ Good ! good! Pray you sive. I liked his sword and his top- sit down.” Instead of this,
" Have boots ; but, above all, I was struck you been attended to, sir !” he said in with his pair of cherubim, whose ham- very good English, and completed my mers and chisels and long, sharp beaks astonishment by alluding to a cadaverwell qualified them to guard their mas- ous young priest in a blue robe behind ter's interests. Of course I do not him as the steward” who would mean to hint that Ni Vaw Sz looks“ take my orders.” Afterwards I ferocious ; but she was a lady and au drew him out, and got him to tell me empress, and behaves herself as such ; I what he was doing in that galley.
From his own account he worked for | sik, from hearing it constantly hurled many years on a Pacific liner; and at him by home-returning travellers. when after an illness the ship's doctor Unfortunately the expression happens told him that his heart was affected, lo be Chinese-Malay for “Have you and prescribed perfect freedom from eaten rice ?” (makan nasi), and excitement as his only hope, he elected means “ Give ye good day." No! if the to spend his remaining days in this awakening of China is to come from temple. He was
most polite and within — and that seems rather unpleasant; and at the risk of making my likely just at present - it will come in story all digression, I bey for a mo- the next hundred years or so from a ment's hearing in defence of my very leavening of these much-abused adgood friend John Chimamau back from venturers. abroad. I know that I am in a minor- But to go back to my invalided ity on this point; for all the mission- friend in the Temple of Tranquillity. aries agree that the last state of this Truly he could not have chosen a betman is worse than the first. One rea- ter place. The eighty priests who sou for this unanimity is that a con- dream away their lives liere have an vert, after ten years of California, not easy time. Where the wood slopes unnaturally has lost much of his teach-lown and flanks the temple they have ing. But I maintain the real trouble made pathways and
rough stone lies in this ; the missionaries (quite benches ; and here they sit the long unconsciously I admit) gain a very day through and platfibres into considerable proportion of their con- magic brooms” to flap away the flies verts througlı what appears to me to willi, chatting together in an underbe a misunderstanding. Suppose Iraf tone or listening to a caged bird singing the Golden is an intelligent man, he in the branches overhead. They do will think, “ These foreigners are not smoke opium, or at any rate they richer and more comfortable and better (o not stupefy themselves with it as do than I; it is good to be like them.” So the Buddhist monks ; on the contrary, he places himself under the instruction they seem as cheery and contented as of some foreign missionary establish they well can be. And in the cool of ment, and by contact with Western springtime, when the pear-trees are civilization is confirmed in his iilea white with blossom, and the fir wood that foreigners and superiority and is studded with azaleas and the wild Christianity are one and the
same rhododendron, few places in sordid thing. Then he goes to Australia ; China can be sweeter and more pleasmeets larrikins and drunken sleep-ant than the Temple of Tranquillity, shearers ; hear's himself habitually ad- I have just one lint to give my tourdressed not as Foreign Devil but as ist, and that is how to pay before leavBlaukety Chow; amasses wealth in ling. He shall express a desire to burn a respectable market-gardening way, incense. His surname, style, and doand returns to erect something really nation will then be written on red handsome over the bones of his de-paper and posted upon the temple wall parted father.
Ile will then call on by way of receipt. If lie is a millionhis oli pastor in a friendly spirit, and aire, lie will hardly gruilge a dollar for probably will shock him a good deal. each day of his visit. Above this, even But le bears no malice whatever to the supposing him to have “ eaten bimforeigner; and in after-years, if he self” and not the temple cuisine, he meets a stranger on the road, he will will gladly spare a few dollars' " tea delicately attract his attention by mur-money” for that most attentive of muring all the English that has re- stewards” and his satellites. mained with him, “ One, two, ti-lee." There are several other show-places I remember arguing this point with a on Lo Fau San, but after the Temple French priest, who said he hail picked of Tranquillity they come rather like up a Siamese swear-word, Ma-kan-a-'an anti-climax. On the way back, sev.
enteen miles of pathi along the skirt of | down on us where we lay-to for the the mountain make a pleasaut walk, night, throwing off the water like with a convenient halt for lunch at the quicksilver from her square bows. Temple of the White Crane, and a Yells and counter yells, a rope thrown comfortable night's loilging at King and made fast, and we were spinning Dragon Temple. The latter place has along in her wake, till by morning the a wide reputation for the waters of its spires of the French cathedral at CanEiscule; and I can vouch for their ton, which are the two horns of llie excellence, whether taken neat or City of Rams, peaked up out of the diluteri. The King Dragon – it sounds rice-flat. And by midday we had rither like a public house — is, more- passed the forts, said good-bye to our over, scrupulously clean, and the convoy, and were working up the Canpriests are only too glad to see a ton arm of the river. guest. Here, after three weeks' al). After all, it was worth while to have sence from the outer worlıl, a news- missed the tug for the experience of hunger seizeil me, and I inquired after creeping up the river-side, in the slack the war, then still in its babyhood ; of the current, under the endless line but the interesting event had not yet of houses. The high deck of the Hongreached the ears of these secluded Kong steamer shows you a kaleidofloating-basketers. I wonder if they scope medley of small craft splashing have hearil of Ping Yang amı Yalu by slantwise across the stream, apparently Dow! How, after a long day's march doing their utmost to get rammed ; in the sun, I came to spend the even- but to understand the meaning of the ing guessing riddles, I cannot imagine. strata that line the banks, you must. It is not easy to translate riddles with take them at their own level. Then out blunting their point; but “Little you know that what looked like an Miss Netticoat with a white petti- inert is really composed of coat” is cosmopolitan, and the Sphinx an innumerable collection of shifting her enigma gave satisfaction. They particles – house-boats, passage-boats, could guess none of mine, and I could slipper-boats, sampans, barges — each guess 100e of theirs. Who would with a life and movement of its own. think that a beast with “six eyes, three It is a city within a city. There are Lails, four leus down, four legs up, roads, too, and by ways. Now you slip marching into town," could be two under the gang way of a Shanghai junk Chinamen carrying a dead pig to mar- unloading at a wharf ; now you are ket sluny on a pole ? So the trial of scraping along the Plimsoll-line of an wits resulteil in a draw.
empty British collier ; then out into There are six leagues of hot, muddy the current to clear a row of lighters path to be covered before Dragonshore moored side by sidle. There is no is seen again. After having borne up room for rowing, so you roll along bein the liope of ice and a punkalı next fore a waggling stern-oar ; and when morning, it was a cruel disappointment the crush develops into a block, it to find that the lug ran only every other is “ Out boat-hooks," and shove at dity, and not that day. Even the Late- the boats alongside quite regardless of born's placid soul was ruffled. The where they want to go. Once as we oniy alternative to another night of bumped along, the young woman at the horrors at the inn was to charter a cov- var of the boat next our's lost her bal. ere native boat, which we did. The ance and pitched into my arms. She captain and the crew (which was his was not at all discomposed, and the wife) slept for’ard, with a partition be- baby slung across her back did not tween them anıl 11s ; and we ate our rice wake up. She stepped back again anil cursed our fate. Still we did not without a word, and continued her re. do so badly after all, for with the moon- marks to a friend at the shouting-point rise a breeze sprang up, and a rice- where they had been interruptel. She barge, under a huge black sail, bore' was used to it. Probably she, like
LIVING AGE. VOL. VI. 264
thousands of others, had never slept the faith that is in him. But of the off her father's or her husband's boat ways and means of the gallery, popular during her whole life. Here and there, knowledge is of the most meagre charamong the hundreds of such homes acter. Indeed, outside the ranks of that jostle by, you get a glimpse of a journalism there are few acquainted little cabin where a desire for art is with the conditions under which the manifested — not common among the reports of speeches and the descriptions lower classes of Chinese ; a touch of of incidents in the House of Commons brilliant lacquer; a scroll of texts in are supplied to the morning newspagold and green ; a looking-glass; per- pers. The attention of the visitor 10 haps a tawdry oleograph of the Virgin the House is often irresistibly attracted
come from who knows where ? — from the proceedings on the floor of stuck in all good faith next to an ad- the chamber by the bustle and anima. vertisement picture of Pearbrooke's lion which prevail in the gallery over soap.
the speaker's chair. He knows it is Past the cathedral, past the Flower the reporters' gallery. There is suffiBoats, the vast Alhambra of Canton cient evidence of that in the spectacle lowering above us like an anchored of pens and pencils in the nimble fiuhotel (only three days later I saw allgers of its occupants flying over the ihat was left of the Flower Boats, a pages of note-books. He watches with hollow square of flames flickering along interest the relieving of the men who the water-level), past the Custom- are “on” for a verbatim report of a House into the glad sight of a stone great speech by Sir William Harcourt, cnibankment, an avenue, and the clean Mr. Balfour, or Mr. Chamberlain. At white houses of Shameen, with the the signal - a touch on the shoulder Union-jack, and the stars and stripes, ten or a dozen reporters jump simuland the tri-color flying above the con- tancously out of the little boxes in sulates. The danger remains of being front of the gallery, and giving place confronted by a lady acquaintance to colleagues, ready with note-book and dressed as if for Hyde Park; but pencil to take up the speaker at the safely at the hotel, though mine host exact point at which they left off, they may gaze with disapproval at your disappear from the gallery. But of (lislievelled appearance and dirty khaki what goes on outside the gallery the suit, it only remains to speak up lustily average visitor to the House, like the and call for the three great necessaries average newspaper reader, is ignorant. - a bath, and a barber, and the last | Let us, then, have a look behind the number of Blackwood.
scenes of this busy journalistic work
E. A. IRVING. shop at Westminster. We shall find it KA YIN CHU, 29th November, 1894.
an experience at once interesting and instructive.
The ambition of every newspaper From The Nineteenth Century. reporter is to get into the gallery of A NIGHT IN THE REPORTERS' GALLERY. the House of Commons. But only a
EVERY newspaper reader has heari favored few obtain that distinction, of the reporters’ gallery of the House No one is permitted to enter the gallery of Commons. It is the medium through without a ticket, and, owing to its liniwhich he is enabled to gaze upon the ited accommodation, not more than arena at Westminster on which the two hundred and fifty of these tickets rival political parties of the State fight are issued by the serjeant-at-arms to out at close quarters their polemical newspapers whose positions entitle differences ; 10 observe how the great them to be represented there by recaptains bear themselves in the com- porters, London correspondents, leaderbais, and to liear what each has got to writers, artists, or skeich-writers. The say, in that war of words, in support of tickets are of two classes : “Transfer