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enough to transact their business without the assistance of any interpreter. Their pronunciation, however, is often unintelligible; still they have an advantage over the Russian merchants, who never learn the Chi

nese.

Next to the governor's house (who has always a guard of from fifty to one hundred horsemen in his yard), are two magnificent temples; one of which is consecrated to the Mongol hero, Gesur Khan, who lived about the second or third century of our era, and is considered as the tutelary saint of the present Mantchou dynasty. A board upon the altar bears an inscription to the following purport: "To the great and sublime reigning emperor Thai Tsing, ten thousand, ten thousand years." There are several idols in this temple, but it is only visited by the Chinese. There is another splendid temple, dedicated to the god, to whom the famous Hindoo prayer Om ma nyde is addressed. The emperors being of the Buddha religion, keep patriarchs of this religion at Pekin, and Ji ho in Mongolia. It is also the faith of the principal Mantchou families, and of all the public functionaries at the Ourga and Kiakhta. The Foe religion, which is that of the majority of the Chinese, is only a sect of the Buddhists, and whose followers, although honouring the spirit of the DalaiLama as a divine emanation, do not consider him as the head of their church. South of this temple are two varnished columns, before the governor's house, which on solemn occasions are ornamented with standards, and, at night, with flaming torches. Many Mongols and Mantchoux of rank come here to purchase goods, as they can thus get them cheaper. There are also many Bokharians in this place for the sale of the rhubarb, of which they have the monopoly. There is a free communication between the Russians and Chinese during the day-time: but as soon as night approaches, the drum at Kiakhta, and a fire-ball launched from the yard of the Dzargotchi (Chi

nese Governor), give the signal for closing the gates of both places, and for every one to retire home. The whole of the police and military management is under the superintendence of this last-mentioned officer, with a variety of inferior officers under him.

The establishment of the commercial dépôt at Kiakhta has answered its purpose completely, whilst that of T'souroukhaitou has almost entirely failed, owing to the badness of its situation, and the difficulty of access on both sides. Indeed, the Chinese merely continue the commerce there for the purpose of conforming to the treaty. There were never more than six caravans sent to Pekin from 1727 to 1755, when the government gave up the privilege to its subjects, toge ther with that of the trade of Kiakhta, since which, the latter has singularly prospered, and rendered the former entirely useless. Nevertheless, that commerce is not so prosperous as is generally thought; for the value of all the goods exchanged there, taken together, seldom exceeds one million sterling a year, and sometimes does not amount to more than one quarter of a million. The exportation of peltry has considerably decreased, since the English and Americans have imported so much of this article into Canton. In order to make up for this deficiency in the annual balance, large quantities of coarse broad-cloth are sent there, which used to be formerly bought in Silesia, but which are now partly manufactured in Russia itself.

After the first treaty, in 1689, a column was raised on the east side of the mouth of the great Gerbitsi, and the left of the Amur, at a distance of 2250 ly (about 857 geog. miles), from the Mandchou town of Tsitsigar, and 1611 ly (about 614 geog. miles) from Sakhaliyan oula Khouton. Upon this column, the whole of the treaty, consisting of seven articles, was inscribed in the Russian, Latin, Chinese, Mandchoux, and Mongol languages; and it is still in existence.

Y. Z.

BUNGALOWS, CHOULTRIES, AND OTHER PLACES OF
ENTERTAINMENT FOR TRAVELLERS IN INDIA.

THE bungalows which have long been erected by the Government of Madras with the charitable view of affording temporary shelter to the weary traveller, extend from that Presidency to the frontier of the Nizam's territories; where one first meets with serais, commonly known by the more familiar appellation of choultries, to which I shall presently advert: they consist of two rooms, a hall, and a verandah on three sides only, with suitable outoffices attached, and a well sunk for the supply of water. The scite selected for the erection of these bungalowɛ, is gene. rally in the neighbourhood of a tope of trees, at a short distance from the village, and commands a delightful and extensive prospect of the surrounding country. The first objects that, on alighting, attract a stranger's attention, are some peons belonging to the collector of the district, stationed there for the purpose of waiting on gentlemen travellers, with strict in junctions to attend to their requisitions; and they are sometimes accompanied by the Cutwal or Puttail of the village, who presents a written document, exhibiting a nerick of the provisions obtainable there, and bearing the signature of the collector in confirmation of the fairness of the prices laid down. According to this statement the necessary supplies are furnished; but when the account comes to be adjusted, which is always done in the dusk of the evening, few persons consider themselves bound scrupulously to abide by the regulations, under the plea that the charges are enormous. A begari is paid at the rate of one dub, or double pice, for every mile; and when it is taken into consideration that an individual travelling has seldom occasion for less than eight, ten, or twelve coolies, often more, while the length of each stage not unfrequently exceeds fourteen miles, it will be readily admitted that the rigorous observancy of the above regulations would naturally bear hard upon peregrinators, especially upon such as, owing to their circumstances in life, are not overflushed with silver. On occasions of this kind, it is not to be wondered at that a wordy altercation should break out; the Cutwal shewing a positive

determination to enforce an implicit observance of the established regulations, and the other party stoutly maintaining a spirit of resistance to this obdurate assumption of authority. The latter, however, invariably takes the precaution to see that every thing is first provided according to his wishes and necessities before he begins to proceed to such unpleasant ex

tremes.

Marching from Datchapilly, and proceeding in a somewhat northerly direction, after going over a distance of about eight miles, the progress of the traveller is suddenly intercepted by the Kistna river, whose banks are exceedingly high and steep in the dry season, when the water is remarkably low, though it is not fordable in any one place without boats, which here are made of baskets covered with thick black, seasoned leather, and of a circular form. These ferries being of a large size, are capable of transporting not only luggage of every kind, but also palanquins with their complement of bearers, and even carriages with their cattle. Owing to the peculiarity of their construction, they do not admit of being paddled in a strait-forward course, but go with a whirling motion which not a little retards their progress, and is always very disagreeable. On the opposite banks of the Kistna, whose current, from the face of the surrounding country intersected with lofty mountains on every side, joined to the natural declivity and steepness of its banks, runs smoothly throughout the year, stands the village of Warrapilly, marking the boundary of the Nizam's dominions. I once passed close to the Kistna, in the worst period of the monsoon, when the rains poured down in torrents, filling up every creek and nullah, and swelling the Kistna almost to overflowing, while the wind roared with a fury approaching to a storm, and yet I do not remember that this beautiful river was agitated in any extraordinary degree.

At Warrapilly the traveller for the first time meets with a choultry, with which the extensive possessions of the Soubah of the Dekhan abound. These edifices exhibit no proud specimens of architectural

elegance suited to European taste, as they are of the simplest and most ordinary construction, and built after the Mahomedan style. Their extreme length is from two to three hundred feet, and they are half that space in breadth. These serais consist of a vast number of little roomз adjoining one another, barely sufficient for the accommodation of a single person. The mosque stands facing the east, and was originally appropriated to religious purposes, though now all think themselves privileged to invade its quiet and sanctity. The centre of these choultries is an open space, overgrown with grass and shrubs, probably consigned for the use of cattle, and in some of them suitable apartments are appropriated for the exclusive convenience of native females. The lofty minarets of the mosques may be distinctly seen at the distance of two or three miles, and more if the country happen to be blessed with an open prospect and at the time when these erections were originally finished, a faqueer had been attached to each, not only for the purpose of guarding the mosques from profanation, but also of keeping the buildings clean and in proper order. This description of service was usually rewarded by the voluntary contribution of Mahomedan pilgrims, who only were suffered to enter these sacred edifices in order to perform their morning and evening devotions; but now hardly a traveller arrives but he is sure to take possession of the very mosque itself, the walls of which are most shamefully disfigured with scraps of writing both in prose and verse in all languages; perhaps, left as lasting memorials of the gratitude of those who find shelter in them from the fatigues of peregrination, the scorching beams of a vertical sun, or the peltings of a furious storm. It may not be irrelevant to mention here, that the serais or choultries in question, were originally founded by Meer Allum, late Minister to his Highness the present Nizam of Hydrabad, from his own private means. These buildings are not composed of common brick and mortar, like the bungalows erected under the auspices of the Madras Government, but of materials as different in quality as the edifices themselves are different in style and construction. Meer Allum, who had the envied reputation of being considered

an able minister and a shrewd politician, combined with the possession of unlimited power, exalted rank, and eminent station, all the milder and more cherished qualities of a generous and charitable disposition, a tender and confiding heart, bene, volent feelings, and great integrity of principle. A few years, therefore, prior to his demise, desirous of leaving to an admiring posterity the most durable monument of his munificence, as during his life his uprightness of conduct in the impartial administration of justice and universal benevolence of character, which his very name significantly denoted, had shed a bright lustre on his reputation, and diffused an unfading radiance around his earthly career, he felt anxious of perpetuating his fame by an act that would not only exalt his renown among his contemporaries while the vital spark continued to animate his corporeal frame, but, at the same time, serve to immortalize his name in after ages. Accordingly, imparting his designs to his brother courtiers, or those satellites which are ever to be found

crowding round the favourite of fortune, emitting a feeble splendour for a transient hour, and then withdrawing their diminished rays before the brighter effulgence of a rising sun, like the ignited insect that, attracted by the brilliancy of a glowing taper, heedlessly flutters round its lambent flame, and is then annihilated for ever; he set about carrying his laudable scheme into immediate execution. It was necessary for him only to issue his mandates to be peremptorily obeyed. Proper architects having been, therefore, provided, and the requisite funds raised, they were soon dispersed over the whole of the Nizam's country with the strictest orders to proceed with the work instanter, Large massy slabs cut out of the adjacent rocks were transported at an immense expense to the different scites where the edifices I have above alluded to were to be respectively erected in the manner described, no other material being employed on the occasion, except chunam, for the internal and external coating of the choultries, which must have been completed at a vast labour and expense, and after the lapse of several years; no doubt presenting at the commencement a grand and magnificent appearance, contrasted with the desolate state of the country

around. The spires of some of the mosques are of beautiful carved work, whilst the gateways of a few, being rather lofty and roomy, afford additional accom→ modation to travellers. The rooms are

extremely small and confined, having no wicket to prevent intrusion, and very much incrusted with a black soot, in consequence of native pilgrims being allowed to dress their victuals in them, and there

being no vent for the egress of smoke; while the interior of the mosques exhibit frightful marks of ravages committed by the rude hands of heedless travellers, who, as a return for the kindly shelter they had received, have wantonly destroyed every vestige of the little elegance which these stately structures ever possessed, by idly indulging in that reprehensible propensity the cacoethes scribendi,-[ Cal. Journ.

AUTO-BIOGRAPHY OF

THE following piece of auto-biography of a learned native, now resident in Calcutta, was drawn up by the subject of it, Moulavee Abdoor Ruheem, at the request of several gentlemen, who were anxious to know something of the steps by which he arrived at se veral singularities of opinion, both physical and theological, that distinguish him from his countrymen. The names of many of the books which he mentions having perused are omitted, as it is not easy to give any account of them. They are in general highly metaphysical, as are also his doctrines. He is now engaged in translating into Arabic and Persian, a considerable number of European elementary treatises on Algebra, arithmetic, and mathematics; and is, doubtless, contributing very considerably to the better instruction of his countrymen in these sciences. He is a philosopher, and, like most other philosophers, has a system of his own. In the translations on which he is employed, he sometimes runs away from the subject more immediately before him, to prove his favourite doctrine that the Sun is God. He will not, therefore, allow that there are more suns than one in the universe, as he denies a plurality of Gods; and consequently considers all the fixed stars as revolving around our luminary. He rejects, without ceremony, the compound forces of rectilinear motion and gravitation, which we imagine combine to keep the planets in their orbits; and although mathematician enough to admit, that the elliptical motion would be the result of both, he will not grant the premises, which he regards as unproved. Although amply endued with the vagaries of a theorist, there is no doubt, that the translations of geometrical and other trea

A LEARNED NATIVE. tises, chiefly taken from Encyclopædias, in which he is engaged, will be productive of benefit to the Persian and Arabic literati.-[Oriental Magazine.

"However unworthy of attention the events of my unimportant life may be considered, yet, in compliance with the desire expressed by high and eminent talent, I proceed to give the following ac

count :

"I was born at Gorakpur, about the year of the Hijra 1200. My father was a weaver, and designed me for the same business, but had me nevertheless instructed, whilst a child, in the elements of the Persian language. He was disappointed by an accident which befell me when about ten years of age; by a fall from a horse, I dislocated my left arnı, and lost for ever the free use of it. Being thus disqualified for mechanical occupation, and confined for a time by indisposition, I was induced to addict myself wholly to study; and between the ages of ten and fifteen, I read with avidity a great number of Persian works, such as the Bostan and Gulistan, the epistolary works of Herkern, Khalifa, and Yar Mohammed, the Vakial Alemgiri, the Sekender Nama, the Dewans of Hilali, Ghani, Asefi, and other poets: at fifteen I commenced the study of Arabic, and soon mastered the elementary treatises. In the course of a year, I perused the Mizan, the Munshaib, and Tesrif. I also learned to write the Suls character.

"Whilst I was studying the Mishah, my father took me with him on a visit to his Pir, or spiritual guide, who lived at Tanda, on the banks of the Gaggra. The Pir was a man of learning, and gave lessons to a number of disciples. My.

love of letters rendered me very willing to be enrolled amongst his scholars, and to benefit by his instructions. I accordingly remained with him, and studied under him three years. Our life was not one of plenty or ease. The Pir had no means of supporting himself and his pupils, but those derived from the bounty of his followers; and this was often insufficient to procure us a meal. He was, moreover, a man of a violent and irascible character; so that, notwithstanding my uniform diligence and obedience, I found it impossible to remain with him longer than the period above-mentioned. I then quitted him, and went to seek my fortune at Lucknow. Whilst living with my master, I read the Kafia, the Shereh Mulla, the Isagoji and Commentary, and other works.

"When at Lucknow, I placed myself under the tuition of other masters, and in the space of a year perused the Maibeddi. I also practised composition, and wrote Persian verses; in which employment, and the pleasures of Lucknow, I lost my relish for grave and serious studies. As one consequence of my altered sentiments, I detached myself from the communion of the Sunis, to which I had hitherto belonged.

"At the expiration of a year, I accompanied a teacher of note on his journey to Dehli, and on the road studied the Shereh Akaida Nesfi. I resided at Dehli three years, and read the Mir Zahedeh Jelali, the Sedreb, the Shemsi Bazgheh, &c. I also studied the elements of physic under Hakim Sherif Khan. Many of these books I was at the pains of transcrib ing. I gave, as well as received instruction, and usually devoted my days to teaching and copying, and my nights to study, I now began to compose, in a style, that would bear a comparision with the writings of former days.

"Towards the close of my residence at Dehli, I began to meditate upon the religious dissensions of mankind, and the attempts of the different sects, to vilify the tenets of their opponents, and veil the defects of their own systems of belief. By this train of thinking, my own bigoted persuasions were entirely destroyed, and my attention was attracted by the histories of the bounty and equity of the ancient princes of Iran, and the contempt

displayed for superstition of every kind, by the eloquent writers who rehearsed their praises. Oppressed with doubt, and unwilling to communicate my feelings to any of my friends, my chief pleasure was in solitary rambles amongst the tombs of the illustrious and eminent, with which the ruined suburbs of Dehli are abundantly strewed. Whilst thus agitated between the reliques of those forms of faith, in which I had been reared, but had now abandoned, and those new and crude conceptions which I had scarcely yet embraced, I was little better than one beside himself. In this state of mind, these lines in the Tohfet-ul-Irakein often recurred to me: I am struck with wonder at all that exists, until the revolution of time, and the end of all things, shall establish the chapter of the Koran, or the volumes of the Zend.'

"At last, in the year 1823, I accompanied Mr. Fraser, one of the gentlemen attending upon Mr. Elphinstone, on his embassy to Caubul. I wrote a journal of the route to Peshawer; but it was afterwards lost. On the road also I perused many books, both Persian and Arabic, which belonged to Mr. Fraser, such as the Haiet al Haiwan, Tarikh Hukma, Khamseh Nizami, and the Dewans of Anwari and Masaoud. At Multan and Peshawer, I met with many works which I was delighted to find, as the Tebaiat chapter of the Shefa, and the Mahahir Mashrekiya Imam, which contains the substance of the Shefa, as well as other curious matters. I returned to Dehli in about a year; and shortly afterwards taking leave of Mr. Fraser, I repaired to Calcutta. I took up my abode at Rasapagla, and was well pleased to be established in a place where lawful authority prevailed, and every man was at liberty to enjoy his own opinions without molestation. I fell, however, into evil company, and lost much of what I had laboured to acquire by study, in idleness and dissipation. The slight reliques of superstition which yet lurked in my heart, were now completely eradicated; for in all situations of life, I had preserved the same anxiety to ascertain the true nature of God and of futurity, and was far from being able to meet with any solution of my doubts, either from men or books. Some of the former, of great repute, replied to my queries, that it was

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